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#WORLD DREAM TOURING

“世界の子供の希望と夢を発信します”

2011年02月

キンシャサ(DRCコンゴ)~ブラザビル(コンゴ)の旅 / Trip from Kinshasa (DRC Congo) to Brazzaville (Congo)

2011年2月27日(日)

Sunday, February 27th, 2011
 

早朝キンシャのホテルをチェックアウト後、ムトンボさんと6:30にホテルで落ち合いタクシーとオートバイで港へ。事前に聞いていた船の時間に会わせて7:00前に到着。朝一番の船は7:30だというのでそれに乗ることにしていた。
だがゲートは一向に開く気配がない。今日は日曜なので7:30ゲートオープンになったとのこと。7:30になりゲートが開き海に近いところへ誘導されバイクを停める。駐車スペースの脇の柵からコンテナやいろんな荷物を見ることが出来た。

実は私の父が40年ほど前、このコンゴ(当時ザイール)に来て家業である材木の買い付けに来たと言っていた。
港に材木が見えいろいろな思いが湧いた。
写真撮影は厳禁地域だったので残念ながら今日は一枚もない。
 

After I checked out at the hotel in Kinshasa early in the morning, I met Mr. Mutombo at the hotel and we went to the port with a shared taxi and my motorbike. We arrived before 7:00. We were said that the first boat will leave 7:30, so I was going to take it. But a gate shows no sign of opening. Today is Sunday, so I was said that it became to be opened a gate at 7:30. It became 7:30, so the gate was opened and I was guided to the place which is close by the ocean with my motorbike. I was able to see containers and various loads from the fence of the side of a parking space. In fact, my father had said that he came to Congo (It was Zaire at that time) about 40 years ago for purchase of timbers. I could see timbers in the harbor and it made me be coming up as of various feeling. It was No photographing allowed area, so there are no pictures today.
 

さて乗船チケットを購入する時、このオートバイは大きいので船が貸し切りになるので二人とオートバイで合計280ドルになると言う。事前に確認していた時はバイク込みで50ドルくらいだと言っていたのに。だがそれを払えばすぐに船を出すと言ったのと、日本大使館に問い合わせると貸し切りだと確かにそれくらいになるというので渋々支払う。
 

Well, When I tried to buy tickets, I was said that it costs $280 as total for 2 persons and with my motorbike because my motorbike is big so that the boat will be chartered one. When I checked the cost before, it was about $50 with the motorbike though. But they said if I pay it, they will depart right away and I checked with Japanese embassy about it then I was said that it will cost like that if I use chartered one, so I paid reluctantly.
 

さあ、その船に乗せてもらおう!と思っていたら、船を動かすため?に必要なもの関連のドアの鍵がないので出来ないという。
鍵を壊すために工具を貸してくれというので貸してあげた。その鍵が開いても中々、作業を進めてくれない。乗船のための作業を進めるには○○に10ドルかかる、別で○○に20ドルかかる、と次から次へと○○担当、○○担当と主張する人間が出てきてイチイチお金を請求する。
挙げ句の果てには今日は日曜なので出国スタンプの係官が出勤するのが遅くなっている。あと30分したら来るという。
 

I was ready to get into the boat, then they said that there is a key which is for opening the door to operate the boat, so they cannot operate. They asked me to lend tools for breaking a key. And I let them borrow mine. Even they opened the door but they didn't start to be ready for depart. People who declare themselves some persons in charge from the next to the next come, and they ask me for money one by one. In the end, since it is Sunday today, the officer in charge of immigration is becoming late to come his office. I was said that he will come in 30 mins. 
 

30分待ち、一時間待ち、待てど暮らせど来ない。ムトンボさんが確認しにいくと今日は日曜なので来ないと言っているという。
国境がそんなことになるわけないでしょ!ということで詰めて確認するとまた一時間ほどまった結果、さらにお金を払えば出国スタンプを押すという。
なんじゃそりゃ!(怒)
 

It passed 30 mins and an hour since we started to wait the officer but nobody come. Mr. Mutombo went to check for me then he was said that the officer doesn't come because it's Sunday. I said that it is impossible to happen at the border, and we went to check more and waited for another hour then they said they will give me a departure stamp if I pay money. What the heck! *angry* 
 

待っている最中、靴磨きの子供が来て勝ってにやり始めた。
子供の助けになるだろうと思いそのまま磨いてもらい前回と同じ金額200コンゴフラン(20円)を払うと、「NO!10ドル(820円)頂戴!」と言う。
もちろんそんなお金は払わないが本当に普通の感覚でいくと相当違和感があるがここはまさに異国。時間の過ぎる時間も人への対応の仕方も、お金の概念も全く既成概念は通用したないのだ。特にこの港の地域は(苦笑)
 

While I was waiting, a kid came to me and started to polish my shoes even I didn't ask. I thought it will help for a kid, so I didn't refuse it, and after that I tried to pay same price as 200 Congo Fran (200 JPY), then a kid said "No! Give me $10(820 JPY)!" Of course I don't pay that much. Actually this makes me feel strange but here is different country, so the preconceived idea in which we also have the feeling of time, the way of correspondence to people, and the concept of money is not accepted at all. Especially this port area.*bitter smile*
 

最終的に出国スタンプ、カルネ代わりの書類が出そろい、船に乗れるようになったのは正午を回っていた。
それからもバイクをこっちに移動させろ、あっちへ移動させろ・・イチイチいろんな人が代わる代わる言うのも不思議だった。
また大きいバイクなので沢山(10人ほど)の人が船に積み込んでくれた。
彼らと今度はブラザビルに到着した時にも船から引き上げる手伝い達に手数料を渡す必要がある。
 


Finally a departure stamp and the documents instead of Carne came out fully, and that I can take a boat was turning around noon. I wondered that people said move my motorbike there in turns after that too. Moreover, my motorbike is big, so many people (about 10) help to put it on the boat. When the boat arrive, they will help it again so I need to pay charges.
 


結局、船に乗れたのは港に到着してから6時間後。
その間、硬いコンクリートか地面に座ってじっと待っていた。
キンシャサからブラザビルのコンゴ川を渡る船上の風は気持ちよかったがそれまでの今日の苦労が、感動も喜びも打ち消していくのが少々残念だった。
 

Eventually it passed 6 hours since I got into the boat and departed. I was sitting on the ground for waiting until I could depart. I felt good for the wind on a boat on the River of Congo but I was a little sorry about today's difficulties till then negating impression and joy. 
 

そして貸し切りと聞いていたのに国境のスタンプを押す人の「親戚」という人が二組乗り合わせていてムトンボさん激怒!(笑) 
ブラザビルについても入国関連で賄賂の請求の嵐@@!もう、これで終わり、この先は一切お金は掛からないよ、というがまた何かにつけて、請求。
この港の人たちのことについて相当大勢の人に「嘘つき」と「賄賂」には気をつけろと散々言われてきたがあまり信じていなかった、というか同じ人としてそうは思いたくなかったが納得する自分が嫌でもある。

And we heard that the boat is chartered but 2 set of people who are "relatives" of the officer who gave me the stamp ride the boat with me, so Mr. Mutombo got angry about it. (LOL) The storm of the claim of a bribe also about Brazzaville in immigration relation:-/ I was said "This is the last one and it will not be charged anything at all." but I was charged for everything. I was said that I need to be careful about "backhanders" and "lairs" by many people but I didn't want to believe it, but I myself who am convinced into the language am also disagreeable.    
 

アンゴラからDRC入国した山付近では道は険しかったが人は優しかっただけにこの港でのことは残念だがこれも私が自分の目で見たかった旅の貴重な経験とする。
また今回私のキンシャサ滞在中~ブラザビルの旅はずっとムトンボさんのヘルプのお陰で時間的、また精神的にははかなり楽に過ごさせて頂だき深く感謝している。
 

The way which was near the mountain which I came into DRC from Angora was steep,but people were kind, so the occurrence in this harbor was regrettable, but this is also considered as a precious experience of the trip which I wanted to see by myself. Moreover, I appreciate deeply that Mr. Mutombo had been helping me while I was in Kinshasa and trip to Brazzaville and it made me pass in time and mental quite comfortably all the time. 

本来、今日はドリシーというところまで行きたかったがそんな国境での事情でこのブラザビルのホテルで一泊することにした。
アフリカガイドブック「ロンリープラネット」で見て名前を覚えていたホテル「オリンピックパレス」に行くと一番安い部屋で一泊330ドルもする@@!
近くのホテルを当たってみるとインターネットも朝食も付いてもう少し安いホテルがあったので滑り込んだ。近くに美味しい中華レストランもあってよかった(嬉)
 

Originally, I supposed to go to Dolisie today but the occurrence in the border was happened so I decided to stay at a hotel in Brazzaville. I went to "Olympic Palace" which was posted at "Lonely Planet" which is an Arflican Guide book because I remember the name of it, but it cost $330 per night even it is the cheapest room! I tried to look for other hotels around there, then I found a cheap one with breakfast, so I decided to stay. I'm glad that there is good Chinese restaurant near the hotel. *happy* 
 

【160ドル朝食込み】

[$160 including breakfast]
 

明日は早朝出発してドリシー(ルボモ)を目指す。

I'm heading to Dolisie from early in the morning tomorrow.

 

<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

【DRCコンゴ】キンシャサ滞在5

いやいや、今日も怒濤の一日だった!

朝、起きてすぐにDHLの荷物の運送状況サイトを見てみるがまだベルギーを出発したという情報から更新されていない。ホテルにあるDHLのカウンターへ聞いてみても何も来てないというので午後に到着することを願う。

キンシャサでのビザの取得は残すところあとガボンのみ。(ガボンは日本でビザを取ってきたが入国締め切り日が微妙になったので延長手続き)朝、ムトンボ神父と朝食を終わらせてからガボン大使館へ向かう。「土曜日だけど午前ならやっているそうですよ」と夕べ、日本大使館の上沢氏が教えてくれたので9:00ちょうどに行ってみると警備の人が今日は手続きが出来ないと言う。がっくり。。ガボン大使館も滞在ホテルから少し離れたところにあるので気を取り直し、せっかくなのでもし今日、日本からの荷物が届いた場合のことを想定して自分で整備するのに必要なものをこの町で買い出すことにした。(現地メカニックの方にクラッチ交換をお願いするのはどうしても不安なので自分でやることにした)ただ土曜日はほとんどの店が10:00からなので小一時間ほど時間をつぶすことにする。少しでも時間を有効にと現地携帯電話のSIMカードへの通話料金チャージ(フラッシュと云う)や、10:00前でも開いている店で旅で不足してきたもの(洗剤等)の買い出しをした。実はこの時間が功を奏した!ガボン大使館の警備の人が私達を町で見つけてくれ、今なら大使がいるので大使館へ行けば手続きが出来るよ!と。急いでガボン大使館へ駆け付けると別の警備の人が親切に全て作業を代行してくれ必要なビザを発給してくれた。超~助かった!!【写真二枚/120ドル】何もかもがうまく行きまるで神様がついているようだ。神父様が一緒だからか?!(笑) 皆様から戴いたお守り、そして無事を願ってくれる皆様の力だといつも強く感謝しています。

さあ、あとは日本からの荷物が届いていたらもう言う事なし!と、ホテルへ戻って確認すると残念ながら答えは同じだった。部屋へ戻りインターネットで確認しても情報は更新されていない。ただホテルのDHLオフィスのスタッフがここではなくキンシャサのDHLセンターへ行けば来ているかもしれないよと言う。もしそこに荷物が到着していてもホテルに届くのにさらに2~3日かかるという。願うような気持ちでセンターまで行きカウンターで確認するとベルギーからさっき届いた荷物があるけどあなたの荷物があるかどうか確認するのに時間がかかるという。ただそこで少しチップを渡すとなんとすぐに調べ始めてくれて、少し時間をおいた後、今度はナイショ話しで提案して来る。あなたの荷物がある(!)でも、受け取るのに重さの規定で300ドル払わないといけない。でも200ドルをナイショで私達に払えばすぐに荷物を出すという(爆) 結果、100ドルにしてもらいその場で受領完了!!もう、この国、面白すぎっ!!!

ちょうどお昼になったので近くまで来ていたムトンボ神父の親戚のヌミさんという27歳の女性も合流して一緒にランチをした。早々にランチを切り上げて暗くなる前に整備を終わらせて明日のチェックアウトに備えたい。ヌミさんもムトンボさんもホテルの部屋を見たいというので中に入ってもらって記念撮影。ヌミさんは生まれて始めてエレベーターに乗るといい動き出した瞬間「怖い^^:!」と言っていた。カルチャーショックとはまさにこのことだね。お二人とはそこで別れ、そこから自分でクラッチ交換の作業をホテルの駐車場の隅を貸してもらって青空整備にとりかかる。木の陰であったことと全く無風状態だったので有り難かった。もし風があろうものならエンジンを開ける整備なので土ぼこりがやっかいになっていたはず。ここでも幸運を強く感じ感謝する。クランクケースカバーを開けクラッチ交換を自分でしていると、昔レーシングマシンの整備をずっと自分でやっていた時のことを思い出した。約4時間に及ぶ整備中、ずーっと誰かしら周りで数名、見てる。。(苦笑)落ちつかないのもあるが何かあった時、手伝ってくれるので有り難いこともある。全ての組み上げ完了後、エンジンオイルを入れる時だけ警備員のおじさんに手伝ってもらった。タイヤ空気圧、チェーンの調整も含めテスト運転も無事出来て完璧になった(と思う^^;)

さあ、早速明日のチェックアウトのためこれから荷造りとコンゴ以降の移動の準備だ!

DSCF3053ムトンボさんに日本から持ってきたハーモニカを プレゼント。






DSCF3058クラッチ交換中!上手に出来たでしょうか?!
部品を送るのに尽力頂いた関係者の皆さん、有り難う〜!!!

オートバイから抜いた後の廃油を現地の人は欲しがるのです。家の木に塗ると木が虫に食われなくて長持ちするんだそうです。 

【DRCコンゴ】キンシャサ滞在3/4 / [DRC Congo] Stay in Kinshasa 3/4

2011年2月24日(木)

Thursday 24th February, 2011


今日はまず朝一番でフェリー乗り場へ。
キンシャサ(コンゴ民主)からブラザビル(コンゴ共和国)へ渡るために国境をまたぐコンゴ川がある。
それを渡るためにフェリーに乗る。
船は二種類あるらしく現地の方が乗るための無料のフェリーとカヌーと呼ばれる有料の高速艇がある。
日本大使館の方曰く、フェリーに乗るのは避けたほうがいいとのことだったのでカヌーの方に乗ろうと思うがオートバイも一緒に乗せられるかを聞きに行くことに。
私とムトンボさんとで港に近づいて歩いて行くとカヌーの客引きが声をかけてきた。
話しをしながら、港方面に歩いているとまた一人、また一人とどんどん客引きが増えてきた!
あとから聞くと船の会社は50社くらいあるそうでもう客の奪いあいが激しい!
結局、私達の事が原因で客引き同士が言い争いになり、さらにエスカレートしてなんと私の目の前で殴り合いをし始めた!!
もう、この人達、無茶苦茶アツい!!?(笑) 
警官や周りの人が一気にやってきてとりあえずその場は収拾。。
その後、大使館を回るために街を行くとあちこちに機関銃を持った兵隊やポリスがいる。
「UN」というマークが入った車両もとても目に付く。
国連だ。
また足の悪い人、無い人がかなり多い。
下手するとアンゴラよりも目にするかも。
聞くとこのコンゴ民主でも2002年まで続いた暴動、内戦の影響で多くの人が犠牲になったという。
平和への道のりに犠牲者が出る歴史というのは必ず辿らないといけないものなのだろうか。
 

 Went to the ferry landing as first thing in the morning. In order to cross to Brazzaville (Republic of the Congo) from Kinshasa (Democratic Republic of the Congo), there is the Congo over the border. I take a ferry to go over there. There are 2 types of ferries which one is free for locals and another is paid high-speed ferry which is called canoe. I got an advice from the guy from Japanese embassy that I should avoid to use the free ferry, so I decided to try to take a canoe. I went to the ferry landing to ask that my motorbike can come with me or not. When we came to the port, many people who are attracting customers for each canoes talked to us. While we were walking toward to the port, barkers were getting increase to talk to us! I heard later that there are about 50 canoe companies, so they are desperate effort to steal customers from each other! At last Touts argue owing to us and it escalates and they started to blow fight right in front of us! They are too aggressive!! (LOL) Police men and people around there came there and handled the situation... After that, I went to downtown to go around the embassies, then there are police men and soldiers with machine guns from place to place. I can see many cars which were put "UN" marks too. It's United Nations. Also there are many people who are lame or have no leg. I think I see more than in Angola. I heard that  Many people fell victim under the influence of the riot and a civil war which continued till 2002 in DRC Congo.  Must the history out of which victims come to the distance to peace follow? 
 

2011年2月25日(金)
朝8:00にムトンボさんと朝食に出かけた。
大使館通りにはちょっと雰囲気がいいレストランが並んでいる。
そして9:00開始のカメルーン大使館へ。
担当者へのチップを少々多めに支払ったことで当初数日かかると言われたビザが30分で発給@@!(笑) 
ムトンボさん、アフリカ人もビックリ(笑)
 

Friday, 25th February, 2011

I went to have breakfast with Mutombo at 8:00 in the morning. There are good atmosphere restaurants on the street of the embassies. And we went to Cameroon embassy at 9:00. My visa was issued in 30 mins even we were said it takes few days because I paid little more tip! LOL Mutombo is also surprised. LOL

【USD140(即日)/写真二枚/パスポートコピー/カルネコピー】

[USD140 (Immediately) / 2 pictures / A copy of my passport / A copy of Carnet]
 

次に向かうのはヤマハのディーラー。
オートバイのことをいろいろ整理して考えてみるとクラッチ以外にもいろいろ整備、修理があるのでクラッチの部品が日本から届くのを待つまで動かないよりも、出来ることは済ませようということで行ってみた。
すると二日前に行った時はヤマハ車でなくてもOKと言っていたのに今日はインド人らしきここの責任者と面談すると一転、ヤマハ車以外はダメ・・と。
がっくりしているとここの整備受付の人がヤマハの仕事もしているが個人で整備工場を持っている人がいるので紹介してあげる、と言って連絡してくれた(感謝!)その人が後でホテルの駐車場まで来てくれることになった。
その待ち合わせまでの時間を利用してマリ大使館へ。
このマリだけはかなり離れた大変なところにあり、ここ大使館?!と思うような感じで他国と比べ経済力の差などを感じさせられる。マリのビザはかなり簡単にその場で発給してくれた。
【USD150(即日)写真1/パスポートコピー】
 

I went to the Yamaha dealer for next. There are many parts that I need to maintenance and repair other than the crutch, so I thought that it is better than just waiting to receive the parts from Japan that I work out something that I can do while I'm waiting. Then they said they can work for my motorbike even it's not from Yamaha but when I met an Indian guy who is in charge of there today, he said they cannot accept it because of not Yamaha one... When I was disappointed, one reception person knows a person  who works at Yamaha and also have own maintenance shop so he can introduce him for me, and he contacted to him! *appreciated!* I got an appointment that the person will come to my hotel later. I went to the Mari embassy using the time to the waiting. Only Mari embassy is located at the considerably distant place, it is the atmosphere which is not an embassy and the difference of economic strength, etc. are impressed compared with other foreign countries. The visa of Mali was issued on that spot quite simply.  [USD 150 (immediately) 1 Photo / A copy of passport]
 

満車の乗り合いタクシーに乗っている最中、街中でポリスストップが。
乗客で一杯のタクシーの前に警官が立ちはだかり、わざわざ車を止めさせて何を言うのかと思ったら「お金頂戴」だって(爆)運転手も慣れたもので「稼いできたら戻ってきてあげるよ」といなす。
乗客、警官、笑いの中でストップ解除で再スタートする。しかしまあ、すんごい街です(笑)
 

While we were riding a packed shared-taxi, the taxi got a police stop. A policeman stands with his legs wide apart in front of our packed taxi, and I was wondering what does he make a car whether parked specially and is said, the policeman just said "Give me money." LOL The driver got used to like this situation, so he just said "when I earn money and come back, I will." Passengers and the police were laughing together and released our taxi. Well, this town is AMAZING LOL
 

その後ホテルの駐車場で整備の人と落ち合った。
当初は「オートバイの状態を確認しに来る」というだけだったのでその後、どこか整備工場へ持って行くのかと思ったら駐車場の隅に場所を移し、その場で修理を始めた。
依頼内容はリアタイヤ交換とチェーン交換。
タイヤ交換はさすがにチューブレスなのでホイールを外した後、私がケープタウンから持ってきたタイヤを持って近くのタイヤショップで組み付け作業をして駐車場に戻ってきた。
ただ、バランスをとった形跡がないので高速走行時は注意だ。
チェーン交換はナミビアのウインドフークのBMWのディーラーで購入したチェーンがエンドレスタイプのものだったのでスイングアームを外さないと組み付け不能では?と思っていたが付いていたチェーンをタガネを使って取り外し、新しいチェーンは落ちている大きい石と手持ちの工具を上手に(?)使ってある駒のピンを打ち抜き、そしてバイクのフレームを台座にして(して欲しくなかった(苦笑))そのピンの頭を再度叩き込みカシメていた。
見た目は上手に出来ていた。。
リアホイールを組み付けた後、リアタイヤが回らない。
すると、リアブレーキキャリパーをハンマーで叩き出したり、エンジンをかけ一速に入れ無理矢理リアタイヤを回し始める@@。
私がよく見るとホイールベアリングに入れてあるカラーを逆側につけていた。オイオイ!指摘して直してからはちゃんとリアタイヤは回るようになったが。。
結構、スゴイ技術を持っているかと思えば初歩的なところで間違いをする。
ここもコンゴの味か(笑) 続きの作業は部品が届いてからすることに。

 

After all my errands, I met with the person who does maintenance at the parking area of the hotel. He said that "he will come to check the status of my motorbike" at first, so I thought he will bring to his maintenance shop after that, but he just started to repair there. My contents of order were exchanging rear tires and chain. Since the tires are tubeless  after removing wheels, I did attachment work at the nearby tire shop with the tires brought from Cape Town, and I came back to the parking lot. However, since there is no trace of having maintained balance, I must be careful when I drive by high speed operation. About exchange a chain, the chain which I bought at BMW dealer in Windhoek, Namibia is the type of endless,  so I thought that he need to take off swing arm and impose it. But he took it the chain which was installed at mine by a chisel, and he pierced the pin of the piece of the new chain, using well the large stone which has fallen and his tool on hand, and used the frame of the motorbike as the pedestal (I didn't want him to do though *bitter smile*), was driving the head of the pin again and was caulking it. Appearance was made well... After he attaches a rear wheel, a rear tire does not turn. Then, he strikes a rear brake caliper with a hammer, or he starts the engine, puts into first gear, and begins to turn a rear tire forcibly. When I check well, the color currently put into the wheel bearing was given to the reverse side. Wow wow!  After I pointed out and corrected it, it came to turn around a rear tire perfectly though... I think whether they have uncanny skills, a mistake will be made in an elementary place. It is a taste of Congo also here. LOL I will do other works after parts' arrive. 
 

さて、あとはガボンのビザの有効期限までに入国が難しくなってきたので念のため取り直し作業をすることとクラッチの部品が届いてこれを無事修理完了すればキンシャサを出発することが出来る。
日本から送ってもらっている部品はホテルにあるDHLオフィスで聞いてもまだ届いていないという。
そういえば福田モーターの担当メカニックの大津さんがDHLのトラッキングナンバーと専用サイトのアドレスを送ってくれたので確認すると今どこにあるかが判った!スゲー!
 

Well, I need to work on getting visa of Gabon because it's getting difficult to enter the country with my visa which I've gotten already by expired, and once I complete to repair the crutch that I receive from Japan, then I can depart from Kinshasa. I checked DHL which is located in the hotel about it but they said it's not arrived yet. Mr. Otsu who is a mechanic at Fukuda Motor sent me the tracking number before, so I check it then I could find out where it is now! Wow!

http://www.dhl.co.jp/content/jp/ja/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=7618514212%0D%0A 


このブログを書いている時点ではベルギーを出発している状態。明日届けばいいなあ。

When I am writing this blog, it has left Belgium. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow. 


DSCF3037キンシャサ駅。この先の港に人が集まる。

Kinshasa Station.

People gather in the harbor down there.




DSCF3038政府にお金を払っていない広告はこのように上塗り(落書き?)されるんだとか。不思議な情勢だ

If the advisement which isn't paid cost to the government,  it will be like that (scribble?). It is the wired situation. 

 

                                                                                                                           
DSCF3040グランドホテルキンシャサ。大分、仲良しのスタッフが出来た。

Grand Hotel Kinshasa. I could be friendly with some staff members. 




 





DSCF3045足に障害を持つ方は、自転車のペダルが手で回せる車両を使って港に向かっていく。そこにいけば少々の仕事にありつけるからだ。長い道のりをこいで行く。

People who have a handicap in a leg go to the harbor using the vehicles which the pedal of a bicycle can turn by hands.  Because if they go there, they can have small works. They drive long way.


DSCF3048ホテル駐車場の端っこで整備が始まった!ここにもギャラリーが沢山。

The maintenance has been started at marge of the parking lot! There are many audience too.




DSCF3049特殊工具がなくてもあらゆる方法で目的を果たしていく姿に脱帽。
Even if there was no special tool of theirs, I took off my hat to the figure which achieves the purpose by all methods.




<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>


今までに掲載いただいた雑誌の最新版です。/ Articles which appeared in the current issue of the magazine



RS-111RS-110
RS-表紙
RIDING SPORT 2011年3月号 P110-111<TRPオフィス>
RIDING SPORT Issued of March in 2011 Page 110-111 <TRP Office>

【DRCコンゴ】キンシャサ滞在2 / [DRC Congo] Stay in Kinshasa 2

今日も朝一番でいくつか大使館を周りビザ発給の手続きをすることに。
そして数日待ってくれていた小学校へついに訪問!

いわゆる私立の学園の中にある小学校を訪問するのだがその前にその学園の高等部へ行き、創業者と挨拶。
 

I go to some embassies to apply visa from early morning today also. And finally I go visit to the elementary school which was waiting for me to come few days! The elementary school which I go visit is located in a private school union, and I go to high school in the union to see the school founder for greeting before I go. 


そしてディレクター、コーディネーター、そして校長先生といろいろな上層部の方の歓迎を受けていよいよ小学校へ。
敷地内に入ると低学年の教室からは元気で楽しそうな歌声が聞こえて来る♪凄くわくわくしてきた!
 

And I was welcomed by the director, coordinator, principal and other upper staff members, and finally I go to the elementary. When I enter the property, I can hear cheerful voice from early elementary grades classrooms :) I'm getting exciting!


それぞれの教室で授業をしていたのでいちいち覗いて写真撮影をしたいと思ったが子供が待っている教室へも急がねばならない。
待ちわびてくれていた6年生の教室へやっと行くといきなり歓迎プログラムが始まった!まるでニッポンとコンゴ民主共和国の公式の式典のようだった。
 

I wanted to drop by each classrooms to take pictures but I gotta hurry to go the classroom which is waiting for me. When I went to a class room of 6th grade at last, suddenly the welcome program was started! It was like an official ceremony of Japan and DR Congo.


しかい少なくともここではニッポン代表として来ているわけなのでその大役を果たさないといけない!と気を引き締める。
学校を訪問ということもあり先生が沢山教室にいて、現在高校生で将来教員になる実習生なも同室していたので子供達はやや緊張気味のよう。
なのでリラックスして本音でふれあう・・という感じではなかったが随分前から準備をしてくれ素晴らしい歓迎会を催してくれた。
 

Actually I’m here as a Japanese representative, so I have to play a major role as it! Kids in the class room was little nervous because there are many teachers and interns who are high school students and will be teachers in the future. So it wasn't like having relax communication time but it seemed that they had been preparing for long time and took place wonderful welcome party for me.


正直、今のコンゴ民主はかなり国民が疲弊している状態。大統領は高官達のイエスマンで国民の声よりも権益にからむ人物達のためなる政策が目立ち、貧富の格差は広がるばかり。

警察官や教師、裁判官、医師でさえも低い賃金で働き、ひとの役に立つ仕事が収入に反映されてるとはさらさら言えない情勢だ。

Honestly, people in DR Congo are getting exhausted now. The President thinks as important the policy which is beneficial to the persons who are high officials' yes-men and are involved in rights and interests rather than national voice, and the gap of wealth and poverty just spreads. 

It is the situation which cannot be smoothly referred to as that the work to which even policemen, teachers and judges, and doctors work at low wages, and are helpful to people is reflected in an income. 


例えば街中に平気で捨ててある車両ひとつとっても法律があっても規制が出来ないほど誰も言う事を聞かない。
それは高官、政治家達が約束を守らないから一般国民も法律を守らないという暗黙のスパイラルが起きているらしい。
 

For example, what who says is not listened to, so that regulation is impossible, even if the vehicles which it has thrown away all over the town also have law. As for it, seemingly, tacit spiral that general people do not observe the law, either has occurred, since neither high officials nor politicians keep their promise. 


そんな国民にとって辛い国家の中にいても少なくとも教育の現場では皆、一生懸命生き、少しでも幸せになろうと頑張っている。
それは子供達の言葉と瞳の奥から伝わってきた。
 

Even if it is in the hard situation for such people, they lives hard wholly and is insisting as it becoming as fortunate as possible at the educational field at least. 

It has been transmitted from children's words and the back of pupils to me. 


DSCF2995

カメルーン大使館を出ると、いきなり子供が寄ってきて靴磨きを始めてくれた。約20円

最初、悪くて断ろうとしたが子供達を助ける目的で気持ちよく神父さんが靴を出したのを見て私もお願いした。
When I came out from Cameroon's embassy, suddenly kids came to me and started to polish my shoes. About 20 JPY. Although I felt  bad to the kids and tried to refuse him at first, the Father kindly have him do his shoes as helping them, so I offered him too.

DSCF2996

ほぼ、両親がいなく住む所もない子供がこういう仕事をしている。
皆、一生懸命生きている。

Almost all kids who has no parents and houses are doing like this jobs. Everyone are living hard.




DSCF2998

学校のポリシーが書いてあるかな? 
生徒数2700人、教員80名だそうです。


Is it said the school policy? There are about 2700 students and 80 teachers.



DSCF3001

小学校6年生の教室に入るといきなり国歌斉唱が始まった@@ 

うおー!


When I came into the classroom of 6th graders, suddenly singing of the national anthem was be started. Wow!



DSCF3005

校長先生から歓迎の挨拶と、日本とコンゴ民主のつながりと祝うメッセージを戴いた。


I got welcome speech from the principal and a message of the celebration for the connection between DR Congo and Japan.


DSCF3006







DSCF3007

児童代表の挨拶にも感激^^!


I'm impressed about the speech of the student representative! :-)





DSCF3011

私から自己紹介と訪問目的、インタビューの説明を


I introduced myself and also explained about the interview.




DSCF3012

日本の子供達の声をコンゴ民主の子供達に伝えた後、クラス代表の3名にインタビューすることに。皆、フランス語です!


After I told the kids the voice from Japanese kids, I gave kid's interview to 3 kids in the class. Everyone speak French!



DSCF3016みな、一生懸命インタビューに応えてくれた!

The kids answered the interview as their best!







 


DSCF3019


 










DSCF3023

スポンサーから戴いたステッカーを渡し、子供達に配ってもらうことに


I gave stickers which from my sponsor and give out to the kids later.




DSCF3026







DSCF3028

将来教師になる高校生が実習生として見学。
そして質疑応答です!


The high school students who will be teachers in the future observe as a trainee. And it is questions and answers!



DSCF3033

コンゴ民主の国旗。
いろいろな思いがそれぞれうずめく中、皆、母国に誇りを持っている。


This is a national flag of DR Congo. 
While various thoughts whirl, respectively, they take pride in the mother country. 


DSCF3034小学校の外観

Appearance of the elementary school 






DSCF3035車の残骸はどこにでも。。

The wreckage of cars are in any where. ..





DSCF3036今日も、同じレストランでムトンボさんとランチ。
「KATSU-DON」を注文。これはまあまあでした(嬉)

We went to same restaurant as yesterday for having lunch with Mutombo. I ordered "Katsu-don". It is OK taste. *happy*

 

 

<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

【DRCコンゴ】キンシャサ滞在1/ [DRC Congo] Stay in Kinshasa 1

キンシャサ到着日の夜も忙しかった。The night in Kinshasa that I arrived was busy.

オートバイのクラッチ関連の部品を一日も早く日本から送ってもらうために日本に連絡をしなくてはいけない。
日本は夜中の2:00。
時差があるためBMWバイクのディーラーの福田モーターに連絡をしたいがインターネットの環境が不安定なためメールを送れるか不安。
そんな時、ツーリング仲間であり岐阜でBMWも扱う「バイクショップ可児」
http://www.bikekani.com/を営む小藤さんに電話した。
「何かあれば何時もいいので電話下さい^^」と日本出発前に言ってくれた言葉に思いっきり甘えて電話すると気持ちよく電話に出てくれて、バッチリ私の要望に100%応えてくれた。
私に代わって翌朝、福田モーターへ電話を入れ、必要なパーツを連係プレーで福田モーター側も即用意してくれ翌日DHL(国際宅急便)で送る手配をしてくれた。
 

 I have to contact to the dealer to send me the related parts of clutch for my motorbike from Japan as soon as possible. It's 2 am in Japan. I want to contact to BMW dealer which is Fukuda Motor but I'm worrying that I can send an email to them because it is unstable environment for the internet connection here. I called my friend, Mr. Kofuji who own "Motorcycle shop Kani"in Gifu prefecture. Before I leave Japan, he told me that "If you need my help, call me anytime.", so I accepted his kind offer and called him. Then he answered kindly and did my favor for me. He called to Fukuda Motor to order the parts, and Fukuda Motor prepared quickly and ship it next day via HDL.
 

そしてやっとホテルのベッドに横になり、今までにない深い眠りに着いた。
朝起きると体中が痛いがとっても元気!
朝ホテルのロビーで、コンゴ民主で子供インタビューのお世話をして下さるムトンボ神父と会うことが出来た!
元々は先週の土曜日に会う予定だったのが私の日程遅れによりずっと待っててくれた。(紹介者:堀米さんーオノレ神父)
ご迷惑おかけしましたm(__)m ムトンボ神父は日本に11年住んでいただけあり日本語がペラペラ!
超~助かる!!
子供インタビューだけでなく私の個人的な用事についても大変なヘルプをしてくださってここまでの苦労もすべて報われるほど。
キンシャサで取得しなければいけない他国のビザは5カ国くらい。
すべて一緒に回ってくれている。
オートバイのクラッチ交換に関する困りごとにもつきあってくれここでも私一人だったらどうなっていたのだろうと思うと結構、冷や汗。。(苦笑) 
気を遣って下さって朝出発するとまずはキンシャサの観光へ。
街の中心地を見せてくれた。良く言えば大変賑やか、別の言い方をすればメッチャ、殺気立っています(笑) 
そして街はいろんな意味でむちゃくちゃです(笑) 
まずは数日後にキンシャ(コンゴ民主)からブラザビル(コンゴ)へ渡るためコンゴ大使館へ。
ビザの申請をすると発行までに二日かかるとのこと。
その間、パスポートを預けることになるので他の国の大使館へ行ってビザの申請をすることが出来ない。なんとかならないかと言うと倍のお金を出せば即日発給するという。
【コンゴビザ:USD180即日発給料込み】
追金して申請から2~3時間後に発給完了。カメルーン大使館にも寄り申請方法を確認し後日行くことに。
 

 Then finally I laid down on a bed in my room, and I fell in asleep deeper than ever.  When I woke up, I feel painful for all over my body but feel so good! I could meet Father Mutombo at the hotel lounge who help me for the kid's interview in DRC Congo in the morning! Actually I supposed to see him last Saturday but due to my itinerary became late, he was waiting for me. (Mr. Horigome - Father Oreno) Thank you for waiting. Father Mutombo had lived in Japan for 11 years, so he speaks Japanese fluently! It's so helpful!! He helped very much also about not only kid's interview but my individual business and I felt that all passed difficulties were rewarded. I need get visa of 5 other countries in Kinshasa, and he came with me to help for all of it. He also helped about exchanging a crutch of my motorbike. If I did myself, I'm not sure it went well like this. *bitter smile* He paid mind to me and took me sightseeing in Kinshasa the morning. He showed me around city center of Kinshasa. If I say good way, it is very bustling, and it is very amuck. LOL And the city is mess in various meaning. LOL First, we went to the Embassy of Congo for going to Congo-Brazzaville( from Kinshasa(Republic of the Congo) few days later. When I applied visa, they said it takes 2 days to issue. I have to leave my passport there until visa is issued and I cannot apply other countries visa if I leave it. I asked them there is any other way to issue sooner then they said they will issue right away if I pay the fee as double. [Congo Visa: $180 including express issuing fee] I paid extra fee and it was issued few hours later. I also dropped by the Embassy of Cameroon to check how to apply  the visa, and I decided that I come again in another day. 
 

オートバイはクラッチの交換を必要とするためにバイク屋を探すか自分でやるために場所を提供してくれる整備工場を探したいと思っていたところ日本事務局のごりちゃんからメールが。
「中央郵便局向かいにヤマハのディーラーあり」ナイスタイミングの情報で、そこに行くと確かに立派なヤマハのディーラーがあった!通常、他の国だとヤマハ車じゃないので受付られませんというとこともあるがそこはめちゃくちゃなコンゴ民主の良い所!!(笑) 
「部品さえ持ってくればBMWでも何でもやるよ!」という(感謝^^)
あとは日本からの部品を待つだけとなりました。
このコンゴ民主でバイクのリフレッシュをしておこうと思う。ケープタウンで交換したリアタイヤが思ったより摩耗が進んだのでずっと積んで走ってきたスペアタイヤと交換しようと思う。他にチェーン、Fブレーキパッド、各部転倒修復・・。
 

 I received an email from Gori-chan who is in Tokyo Office as nice timing when I was thinking that I should look for a motorbike shop or a maintenance shop that let me do it myself. The mail said "there is a Yamaha dealer in front of Central Post Office." When I wen to the place, there is a nice Yamaha dealer! Normally dealers in other countries would say we cannot accept non Yamaha ones, but here is Congo and they said "if you bring the parts, we will take care of your even BMW." *appriciate :)* I just need to wait to receive the parts from Japan.  I'm going to make my motorbike refresh in Republic of the Congo. The rear tire which I exchanged in Cape Town has been getting bald, so I will change to a spare tire which I've been having. And a chain and F brake pad and repairing each parts due to fall... 
 

ちょっと、困ったのが手持ちの現金。。
日本から持ってきたUSドルは余裕があるつもりだったがアンゴラ/ルアンダでチェックインの際はクレジットカードが使えると聞いていたのにチェックアウト時に使えなくなり結局現金で払うことに少々長居したので結構な金額に。
コンゴ民主に入ってあちこち大使館回りなどしているうちUDドルが底をついて来た。
いつもの感覚でATMを探すため現地のムトンボさんにATMに行きたいというと、ATMって見た事がない・・という。
ちょうど大使館の近くで昼食をとるためにレストランに入ると珍しく日本人がいた。
話しかけると京都大学の超希少霊長類「ボノボ」を研究している先生だった。
ATMについての情報を訪ねるとキンシャサは基本的にないという。
日本大使館がシティバンクと同じビルにあるというのでシティバンクの口座を作ってきた私はそこに行ってみると口座を持っていても海外で作ったものはこのコンゴ民主国内ではお金を下ろすことが出来ないという。
最終的に日本大使館にいくと大使館員兼、領事警護という上沢さんという方が対応してくれた。
ATMは結局、灯台下暗しで私の宿泊先のホテル内に設置されているところが確実に使えるとのことを教えて頂だきほっとした。そしてこの上沢さんがまた素晴らしい!!
なんと兵庫県警から出向でこのコンゴ民主に来ている方であり日本ではチャイニーズマフィア対策専門の刑事だったと。
関西人らしくめっちゃ面白く涙が出るほど笑わせてくれた。
また本当に私のことを親身に心配してくれ何かあれば私の警護に関しても相談に乗ると言ってくれ24時間いつでも何かあったら電話して下さいと携帯電話の番号を教えて下さった。
また無事にキンシャサを出てブラザビル(コンゴ)側に入ったら電話を下さいとまで。。
相当このキンシャサのヤバい部分をとうとうと話して戴いた。
多くの方のお陰で逆にキンシャサも楽しむことが出来そうです。
 

I get bother by cash...  I thought I brought enough US dollars from Japan, but I had to pay in cash at the hotel in Angola / Luanda even they said I can pay by my credit card when I checked-in. Moreover I stayed little longer that I thought so it became kind of big money. Since I came into Congo and went around Embassies, my cash has all gone.  When I tell Mr. Mutombo that I'd like to go to ATM in order to look for ATM with usual feeling, he says that he has not seen ATM. When we went into a restaurant near by the embassy to have lunch, there were Japanese man there for a change. I talked to him then he told me that he is the teacher who is studying the overly rare primates "Bonobo" of Kyoto University. I asked him about ATM, and he told me that basically there is no ATM in Kinshasa. He told me that there is City Bank in same building as Japanese embassy, so I went there because I made my bank account at City Bank in Japan, then they said accounts which are made in foreign countries cannot be used in Congo. When I finally went to the Japanese Embassy, Mr. Uesawa called the embassy staff and consul guard corresponded to me. I was told that ATM can use certainly what is installed in the hotel which I'm staying by him and it was under my nose but I felt relieved. And Mr. Uesawa is great guy!!! He told me that he was coming to this Congo by the temporary transfer from the Hyogo Prefectural Police, and was a detective of the Chinese Mafia measure speciality in Japan. He is very funny guy and made me laugh so hard. Moreover, he worried kindly about me truly, when there was something, he said that advice was given also about my guard, and he said "Call me any 24 hours if there is something I can do." and gave me his mobile phone number. And also he said " Please call me when you get into Brazzaville safely." He told me about the dark side of Kinshasa.  I also enjoy Kinshasa, thanks to many people. 
 

DSCF2972

ムトンボ神父様と最も開発が進む中心地で

Took this with Father Mutombo in the town center where development progresses most.


 
 


DSCF2975

街中が土煙に


A cloud of dirt covers the town.





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商店街の中の有名な生地やさん。これを使ってアフリカ女性が着る服を作るのだそう


A famous fabric store in market.
They will use those to make women's close.


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街中にある巨大マーケットへ


Went to huge market in the town.





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なんでも売っていて活気がある!


They sell many kinds of stuff and busy!





DSCF2983

靴も山盛りで売っている。中古もあり一足300円ほど。


They sell many pair of shoes. There are used ones and they are about 300 yen.




DSCF2985

黄色い建物が中央郵便局。向かいがヤマハのディーラー店


The yellow building is Central Post Office.
The dealer shop is opposite. 



DSCF2989

乗り合いのタクシーに初乗車!


I rode a shared-taxi for the first time!




DSCF2990

もちろんドアは閉まりません。そのまま走ります。あるだけマシ(笑)


Of course the door cannot be closed. It is driven with this. It is better than nothing. LOL 








DSCF2992

タクシーミニバス。


A mini bus taxi.





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乗用車タイプのタクシーもあるが、一般車とタクシーの見分けはつかない。

乗せてもらえるか、乗せてもらえないかだけ(笑)

ガラスにヒビがあるのは当たり前。これもあるだけマシ(笑)

There are passenger type of taxis  but can't recognize. The difference is that it arrow people ride or not. LOL

It is natural that there is crack in a front glass. It is better than nothing also LOL


DSCF2993

大使館近くにある和食&韓国レストラン。ここは結構、イケル^^!


Japanese & Korean restaurant near by the embassy. This restaurant serves good ones :-)

 

 


<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

[DRC Congo] Trip from Gizenga to Kipemba (2)


I did business, looking up at a night sky outside praying that only it will not rain tomorrow, and slept a little early in preparation for tomorrow. 

And it cannot be overemphasized that I used the sleepingbag again...



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They are doing immigration check under the blue sky at DRC Congo side! That's Gizenga! (LOL




DSCF2941

There is an electric generator at the village mayor's house and they will make work this when they use electricity.


 
 

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Thus, if the way which I thought the trunk road becomes narrow rapidly, I will become uneasy rapidly. 


 



DSCF2944

When there is a preceding person, my psychological fear is completely lost and feel grateful. 


 


DSCF2945
The car came in the place where a way is becoming good a little. 
It bring too many things and people.


DSCF2947

村で停車すると一気に観客(?)が集まる。

When I make a stop at a village, many audience(?) get together.





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Since it was Sunday, a bazaar opened and there were too many small shops on the street.


 


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I don't know what it is but I tried to put it into my mouth. I couldn't eat it even I was staving. 


 

 

DSCF2953

I'm done for the day... When I arrived at the small town which is called Kipemba, a conference has been started with elders from the town.



DSCF2954

2 boys who are in middle of the picture (who are wearing scarf and having a stick) are the great guide of the 14 km trip for me.



DSCF2955

We enjoy coke!







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A palatial residence very new in the town. 






DSCF2958









DSCF2956The house of big boss is a hotel(?) and he let me put my motorbike in to indoor. 




DSCF2959

A boy (in the middle) who came to sell some foodstuffs in the evening. It was part of pork. A caretaker from the hotel cooked it for me.


DSCF2960
They served me very delicious dinner. * appreciate*  They served me coke because I said I don't drink alcohol. It was perfect... I had so much food here.

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We built great relationship and exchanged our business card for keeping in touch! Thank you very much, Mr. Andre!




<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

[DRC Congo] Trip from Gizenga to Kipemba (1)


The distance of this time is just about 50 km but I've used up all my energy for this trip today. *bitter smile* I was thankful for small mercies that there were no rain, but I felt like I was seeing just like "the road of hell". *afraid* I tipped over many times and I tipped over me and my motorbike like header and I felt like the tank or the screen of front got broke. Each time the gas seeped from the tank. The pannier case is getting distorted. Moreover, my leg go caught few times and it was painful.It was ok that I've worn the helmet but I hit my head strongly too. But don't worry. I've never got injury at all thanks to the protection.



I got an immigration stamp at the place that I stayed in DRC Concgo side then I left there at 8:00 am. I totally got a scare about the terrible road situation which is much worth than Angola but I have no choice so gotta go forward. I felt like that I want to order a helicopter and just fly in to Kinshasa. I had just been driving for 30 mins then got lost.



Then a motorbike of two-seater came to me. They said they will come to Niginga where I'm going with me. It's mentally helpful much. If I drive all alone at the mountain road in Congo which I won't be surprised if I get lost anytime, I would definitely be worried way too much while I'm driving. Even there is just a narrow side road, I make a stop and wait for someone coming because I need to check the direction to them.



As my experience, I cannot say it is the right direction even it's a big road. If they come with me and help me when something happens, I would return a favor to them but I feel lighter because I have guides with me. 



We had driven for about 3 hours and they dropped by some villages on our way to talk with people or do their errands. It takes time but I have no choice. I was said that "there is no problem!" the road from Niginga by people from the border, but it was wrong. (LOL)

Speaking of this, I was said the route from Luanda to Kinshasa is way too good route so I will sleep on driving by one guy in Angora. No way! Totally opposite condition. LOL



I became alone from Niginga, and the road condition was getting worth. I fell down few times then people from a village and a villafe mayor came to me and said I better take rest because look exhausted. 



I said I want to arrive at Kinshasa by end of the day then they went to pick some kind of medicine and water from near their village and gave those to me. I've flinched at taking it once because I don't know what kind of medicine but the water which came with the medicine looks so tasty, so I drunk it with the water all in once.



One boy became a guide for me who I believe probably he was in the crowd at that time. When I tried to take a rest like sinking down on under a tree in another village from the place where I got the medicine, then one person from the village hold out a chair for me. I got many kindness from people here. 



I was too exhausted, so I cannot talk with people who came around me and my motorbike. I asked them that are there any fruits or something I can eat but they said there is none but they handed to me something like an hard eggplant which was baked. They explained how to eat, which I strip the skin of it. Then the person explained to me started to eat it himself. I put small piece of it into my mouth then I could know it is a kind of potato but I couldn't eat at all, so I gave it back to them politely. (LOL)



They laughed at  my face contorted with the taste when they saw me that I put it into my mouth. I thought I need to eat something, so I tried to eat few piece of biscuits which I had and take supplements, but there were many people (audience?) there, so I cannot have quiet meal. (LOL) 



I took rest about 30 mins I guess. I thought that I would leave soon and showed them magic which I brought from Japan at the gratitude of a potato (?) and a chair and it was very popular and I got applause! (Thank you so much for your advice, Uran-san who has traveled around the world twice!)



I'm so anxious the road situation ahead even though I'm I try to leave with good mood. I make sure the direction for going to Kibemba as my next stopover, then one young guy (I found out that he's 17 years old later.) was doing the gesture which is "I'll guide you."to me. He started to run in front of me and lead me. When I leave the village which I took a break, it's still the bad road situation and a fork in the road is located in someone's house property made me trouble.



Because of those I get lost really. If I couldn't have this young boy guide, I would definitely be lost. (LOL) He was running few meters a head of me and giving me direction where we should trace the road very carefully.



Since Kipemba is 14 km away from the village, I was wondering how far he will come with me, but I just followed him. I thought that he will take me until the point which is good road condition. The road does not become good even if I drive forward how far. On our way, one boy (he's 16 years old) joined us. He rode a bicycle. The boy who is riding bicycle is in our front and another boy who is running is behind him then I drive the last. And many kinder kids and elementary kids are running behind me. (LOL)



About 10 kids was following us from the village which I took rest. Children were added from the village through which we pass on the way, or the children were added further in another village from which I take a break when I am tired , and when the biggest number of the group, it was about 30 children had been reaching and running our back. It was like a big even in villages.   



Since children can seldom go home if they run to a distance, the number becomes fewer gradually. The last became only a bicycle, a runner, and me. When I made a stop at middle of the road on our way because I was too exhausted, I asked them how far will they come with me. Then they said they will come until Kipemba.


 

At last, they had completed to run for the distance of 14 km! Moreover, they have to go back from there to their village! I'm so impressed that I cannot express by words! When we arrived at the small town, it was already passed 15:00, so I told them that I want to look for a place I can stay tonight, then they found the place which is the best one in the town (actually there are only 2 there though) for me.



Finally we arrived at the place which I stay, then we drunk coke together as we had been saying that "let's have coke together once we get the town! " And I gave them bottles of water and return. They were so pleased, and I was so proud of them and my heart goes out to them also. I found the deep insight in Africa here too.



When I arrived at the place I stay, various people gathered. People from church, teachers, a trainer from military, village mayor and owner of the hotel who has the most influence in the village because people called him "Big Boss". He looks very scary. *scary/LOL*



Basically they want to know who I am and I came here what for. Yes, I'm a completely foreigner stranger for them. It is natural reaction because I came here even here is not the tourist spot. When I stay a place which is not a tourist spot, usually I'm asked the reason that I came for.

I'm not that kind because I have my motorbike but I'm seen like a terrorist came into a When I tell people my purpose as the charity, most of time people understand.



I had dinner which was cooked homemade pork dish by staff in the hotel. There cannot be no flush by the system by which a toilet pours out the water which will have been drawn "when" in a toilet bowl.  It was the first experience for me but I felt so good because it had been so tough to come here. Although a bathroom is located uniquely in the house here, water service is flatly covered with the water for baths which cannot be used but has been kept. 



There is no electricity, so it is completely dark after the sun goes down, and I write my blog in the dark room. The light from my laptop is too shiny and hard for my eyes. In the darkness, I and the owner of the hotel was having dinner and talking about each other. He was very kind and gentle that is totally different from the first meeting, and he was also very pleased to meet me. Moreover, he could speak English like my level, so it was a help too. [Unknown name of the hotel: 50USD including dinner&breakfast]


【DRCコンゴ】キペンバ~キンシャサの旅 / 「DRC Congo] Trip from Kipemba to Kinshasa

キペンバの朝、私が出発したいといった時間に合わせて朝食を作って出してくれた。
フランスパンと紅茶と煮魚。面白い取り合わせだが、この場所で朝食を出してもらえたのは超感謝。
 

They cooked my breakfast on time that I asked them to have a breakfast before the time of my starting.. French bread, English tea and boiled fish. It's interesting combination but I appreciated to have it here so much. 


朝、ここの宿のお手伝いの男性が私の汚れたブーツを洗ってくれた。
また空になった大きなペットボトルに飲み水を補充してくれた。
何から何までお世話になってしまった。朝になるともうガイドの少年はいない。
 

A helper from this hotel washed my boots for me this morning. And also he refilled drinking water to a big empty pet bottle. He took care of me very well. The boy had gone after that.


ビッグボスが言うには
「ここからは道の状態は良い所もあれば悪い所もある。分かれ道、判らない道があれば人に聞きながら行けば良い」
と適切な指示を戴いて不安の中、宿を出た。
 

According to the big boss, the road situation will be good and bad from here. He gave me appropriate advice which is "At a fork, you better ask people the way you need to go." etc, and I had anxious feeling but left there. 


宿から町の中心に出る約1キロほどの距離だけで二度、バイクを倒してしまう(恥)
深砂が長く続いている道は本当にキツい。
そこでバイクを起こすのと手伝ってくれた子供達の追走が始まった。
また早朝から数十人単位だ(笑)。
 

I fell down twice from the hotel to the downtown which is just 1 km of the distance. * shame* It is really tough that the deep sand road continued so long. Kids who helped me to stand up my motorbike has started to came up from behind me. Tens of kids was doing from early in the morning. LOL


その私達の軍団を察知して新たな少年ガイドが登場した。
昨日と同じように私の前をランニングで最も道の状態が良い場所を教えてくれながら前を走る。
その少年がある程度の道まででガイドを終了し私と別れると、今度は追走してきた子供がガイド役を「先輩」の見よう見まねでし始める。
まだ小学生で3~4年生ではなかろうか。
子供なので私の前で転ぶこともありながら無邪気に、一生懸命走り続ける。
それも裸足だ。子供なのでたまに判断を間違う。
間違ったラインを私に教えてしまうと道を私が走りやすいように穴ぼこを草で埋めようとしたり、轍を手で取り去ろうとしている。
その作業を見て感動して涙が出る。
お決まり事として別れ際に御礼を渡す。
それが楽しみで頑張って走っているのだが子供の頃から人に親切にしてきちんとお金を稼ぐという一流の仕事ぶりが身に付いて行っているのだ。
 

The new boy guide has been showed up due to be realized the group. He is running in front of me like yesterday and letting me know the best spot to pass. When the boy ends a guide even on a certain amount of way and say good-bye to me, another child who has run hard will begin to do a guide by following another's example of a "senior" shortly. Probably his age is around 3 to 4th grade. Since he is a child, although it falls over in front of me, it continues running hard innocently, and he's running without shoes. Sometimes he chooses wrong way, but He tries to fill in holes with grass for making me drive easily when he's told me wrong one. When I see his work like that, I'm so impressed and coming my tears. As a rule, I separate and hand them gratitude in the case. They are looking forward to receiving it, so they are working so hard. They've been developing the ability of the first-class way of work since their childhood as being kind to people and earning money. 


最後のちびっこガイド君達と別れる時
「もう僕らは村に戻らないといけない。この先はもう大丈夫だよ」
という言葉通り、道の状態は少しづつ、少しづつ良くなっていく。
その途中でも深砂にハンドルをとられたバイクを倒す度、自分の運転技術の低さに頭に来る。
また「砂のばかやろー」と主体性のないことまでぼやいたりする自分に後から笑ってみる。

誰か深砂の走行テクニック教えてもらえませんか?(笑) 
 

When I say good-bye to the last guide of kid, he said "I gotta go back to my village. It will be good road from here. " The road is getting better little by little as he said. On the way, it's burns me up as my low driving skill when I fell down at deep sand each time. And I laugh at myself that I grumbled "Idiot sand!" as losing independence. Would anyone teach me the Technic of driving at deep sand? LOL


しかしどんなところで転倒してもわずか数分以内に助けが来てくれるのは大変助かる。
これはアフリカの良いところではないかな。
また何かのきっかけに地元の人と話しをする場合、英語を話す人の割合がアンゴラと比べて多い。
アンゴラはポルトガル語を話すがDRCコンゴはフランス語。
通りすがりの人と「ボンジュール!」と挨拶をするのは気持ちいい。
 

Well, it is very helpful that someone comes to help me in few mins when I fall down wherever. I believe it is the good point of Africa. And when I have a chance to talk with locals, there is much percentage of those who speak English compared with Angola. Angolan speaks Portuguese but DRC Congolese speaks French. I feel good to say "Bonjour!" with persons passing by.


朝の出発から5時間ほど走り、道の状態がほぼ純粋なグラベルになってきら十数キロ走るとついに舗装路に出た。
もう天国!!(笑) 
もう豪雨になってもらってもいいです(笑) 
途中から気付いたのだがクラッチが滑り始めた。
悪路に次ぐ悪路を超えて行く際、かなりの頻度で半クラッチを多様した。
通常はこんなに半クラッチを使うことがない。
 

I've driven for 5 hours since I left in the morning, and When the way became almost pure gravel and drove about 10 km, it came out to the pavement road at last. It's like a heaven!! (LOL) I don't care anymore if it will come heavy rain. (LOL) A clutch began to be slippery although I noticed from the middle. When I had driven forward on very bad road, I had been using a half clutch many times. Normally I don't use it like this.


舗装路からキンシャサまで約200キロ。
前を行くトラックを追い越そうにもクラッチの滑りが激しくなり慎重を極める。
長い上り坂ではクラッチの滑りが増幅し不安が募る。
なんとかキンシャサまでもってくれ!と祈りながらバイクをいたわりつつキンシャサでごまかし走行で導く。
 

It's about 200 km of the distance from the pavement road to Kinshasa. Even I try to pass a track which drive in front of me, I have to be careful because the clutch became slippy hard. On a long uphill, the slide of the clutch amplifies and my uneasiness grows severe. I was praying that " Please let me keep this till Kinshasa!" while I was driving carefully. 


ここまでどんな転倒にも耐えてきてくれた「BMW F650GS世界ツーリング仕様」は凄いです!
転倒しバイクを起こした後、エンジンが一発で始動しなかったことは一度もなく完璧。
ハンドルが少し曲がったこととシフトペダルが内側に入った程度で手で戻して修正完了。
パニアケースも手でなんとか歪みが戻せそう。
本当に最高の相棒だ。
かなり助けられています。
 

It's amazing my motorbike which is "BMW F600 World Touring Style" and has been living with any kinds off falling till now! When I've fallen down and put back, it's always started engine by just one time. The handle buckled little bit and the shift and peddle got just inside, but I just put it back by my hand and completed. I think I will be able to correct the distortions of the pannier case too. They are the best buddies for me! I'm helped by them so much.


舗装路に入った後は思い出したようにポリスストップの嵐!
その度に警官が「飲み物代を頂戴」と言ってあからさまにお金を要求する。
「金はない!」というと「OK!^^」と気軽に答える。
これもカルチャーだなと割り切る(笑) 
ある意味どこかの警察のように無罪の人に濡れ衣着せて
「許してやる変わりに賄賂をよこせ」
というタイプでないだけ気持ちがいいと感じる。
 

Since I've started to drive on the pavement road, there are too many police stops! Each time they say "Give me drinks" and demand money. When I say  "I don't have money!", then they answer "OK!". I think of it as their culture. (LOL) I feel that it is better than the police who arrested an innocent person and said "Give us bribe if you want me to release you."


何度も人に聞きながらやっと到着した「グランドホテルキンシャサ」
アンゴラのルアンダを彷彿させる渋滞が集中し、DRCコンゴの街を走る車両はアフリカで一番、悪い状態の車が走っているキンシャサの中心街の雰囲気とうって変わってホテルの敷地に入ると新車のアウディやマセラッティなどのスポーツカー、新型のベンツも停まっている。
この敷地だけはアフリカにいることを感じさせないほど。
 

I've asked persons the directions many times and finally I could arrived at "Grand Hotel Kinshasa". There were heavy traffic and It reminds me Luanda's. Vehicles which run in DRC Congo are the worst situation ones in Africa in down town Kinshasa, but the scenery has been totally changed when I come into the property  of the hotel. Sports cars are of Audi, Maserati and the newest type of Benz are parked there. It makes me not feel of Africa.


宿泊予約をしてあるので先にバイクを駐車場の開いているスペースに停めることにした。
するとすぐに気持ちよく声をかけてくれる男性がいた。
私が英語で答えると英語で話し始めた。
世界一周をしていてケニアから始まり数日前にアンゴラから入国し道が険しくて大変だった・・という内容で談笑した。
 

I've already booked a room, so I just parked at the parking space before checking in. Then one guy talk to me with nice atmosphere. When I answered in English, we started to have comversation in English. I talked him that I've been traveling around the world and started my trip from Kenya, and I just entered the country frmo Angola and the road situation was too rough so it was very hard.


そしてまず手荷物だけ持ってチェックインのためホテルの玄関まで行くと、ホテルスタッフが私を静止した!フランス語で何やら言っている。
よく聞くと「あなたの身なりではこのホテルには入れません」というではないか!
なんで?というジェスチャーをすると「貴方の靴が汚すぎる。ホテルが汚れる」と。
かなりショックな応対をする(悲)

すると先ほど駐車場で私に話しかけてくれた男性が駆けつけてくれて
「この人は、アンゴラから大変な想いをしてここに着いたんだよ」
とそのホテルスタッフに言ってくれた。(感謝)
そのお陰でどうぞ、ということになり無事チェックイン出来た。
 

And I went to the front to try to check-in with just my hand baggage first, then hotel staff made me stop! He says something in French. When I listened carefully, he's saying "You cannot enter with your dress."! I did the gesture of "Why?" then he says " Your shoes are tii dirty."! I expressed that is "I got a shock" to him, then the person who I talked with at the parking lot came and told the staff that "He could arrived here from Angola with having hard time finally." *very appreciated* I thank him to be able to check in finally.


ホテルの部屋に入ると全く違う時代、世界に来たようです。
果たしてこのホテルの部屋が本当の世界か、はたまたあの日が沈むと灯りはたき火と星灯りだけが頼りの村が本当の世界か。 

部屋も奇麗、お湯もバスタブもあるシャワールーム、電話一本でアツアツのピザがルームサービスで届く。
 

When I enter the room in this hotel, I feel like I came to the different era and world. This hotel room is the real world or villages which have light from bonfire and star light after the sunset is the real world? 

The room is clean, and  there is bath tub and shower room. Fresh pizza will be delivered when I make a call.  


でも汚れた靴だというだけで玄関から中に入れない世界と、電気も水道もなくその日の獲物を料理した夕食、そして困っている人を誰でも受け入れる人の優しさと親切だけで生きて行ける世界とどっちがいいのだろう? 
僅か350キロ、7時間の移動で二つの世界を体験している自分が面白い。

【グランドホテルキンシャサUSD217 素泊まり/税別】
 

But which is good that the world that don't let people get in the entrance because of wearing dirty shoes and the world that there is no electricity and running water and have dinner with cooked by catch things of the day and it can make a living only by the tenderness and kindness of those in whom anyone accepts those who are in trouble? It is interesting that I was able to be having experiencing 2 different world by the movement just 350 km and 7 hours. 

[Grand Hotel Kinshasa USD217 bed without meal / excluding tax]



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ちびっ子ガイド君達と別れ際に記念写真!


I took this right before saying good-bye to kid's guides!




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検問で、オートバイ談義をした。コンゴ民主の白バイは新型でかっこ良かった!


We talked about motorbikes at a police stop. Police motorbikes in Congo were new style and cool!


31)

こういった車がひっきりなしにはしっている!人柄は皆、明るい^^!


Like this vehicles are running around all the time! Everyone's characters are cheerful! :-)











<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>


【DRCコンゴ】キゼンガ~キペンバの旅

この区間は約50キロほどしかないが今日はここで力尽きました(苦笑) 雨が降らなかっただけ不幸中の幸いですが、もう「道の地獄」を見ている感じです(恐)。何度も、何度もひっくり返り一度はバイクが逆さまに近い状態にもなり、もうタンクやフロントのスクリーンが割れるのではないかと思うほど。その度にガソリンが漏れる状況です。パニアケースがかなり歪んできました。また足を挟むことも何度かあり、結構痛い思いもしました。ヘルメットがあるので大丈夫でしたが頭部の強打もありました。でもご心配なく。装備のお陰で全く怪我はありませんので。

 

DRCコンゴ側の国境の宿で、入国スタンプを押してもらってから8:00くらいに出発。アンゴラの道の酷さを格段に凌ぐ道の状態に度肝を抜かれるがやはり行くしか無い。気分はヘリでも呼んでキンシャサまでひとっ飛びしたい位い。走り出して30分位いしたところで道に迷う。すると後ろから二人乗りのバイクがやって来た。私が向かうニギンガという村まで行くというので一緒に走ってくれることに。精神的には超助かる。どこで道を間違えてもおかしくないコンゴの山道を一人だったら1000%不安に駆られながら走る。細いあぜ道が脇にあるだけでも常に、そこで誰か地元の人が来るのを待ち、方向を確かめなければならない。経験上、太い道がその方向とも限らない。一緒に走ってくれて何かあればヘルプしてくれる方に御礼をすることになるわけだがある意味、ガイドが居てくれることになり気持ちだけでも楽になる。約3時間くらいのランデブー走行の途中、二人乗りの彼らは途中途中の村で知人と話しをしたり用事を済ませている。これには少し時間がかかってしまうところだがしょうがない。ニギンガから先の道は「全然問題なし!」と泊めてもらった国境の人たちが言う言葉はやはり??だった・・(笑) そう言えばアンゴラのある人もルアンダからキンシャサへのそのルートは道が良すぎて居眠りしちゃうよ!という情報もとんでもない(笑)

ニギンガから一人になって、道のりはさらに険しく数回転倒をしている時に私の周りに村人が集まってきて村長さんらしき人がかなり疲れているのではないか、休んだ方がいいのではないかと言う。キンシャサに今日中に着きたいので急ぐというと何かの薬と水を近くの村まで取りに言ってくれて差し出してくれた。薬は何のものか不明で飲むのを一瞬たじろいだが一緒に差し出された水がとっても美味しそうだったので二錠の薬と水を一気に飲んだ。多分その時にいた中の少年だと思うが後にガイドになってくれた。薬をもらった所から先の別の村でへたり込むように木の下にバイクを停めて休もうとすると椅子を差し出してくれた村人が居てここでも人の親切にあやかる。究極に疲れていたのでバイクの回りに人が集まってくれても中々話しをすることが出来ない。何か果物など食べるものはないかと聞くと何もないと言われたがしばらくすると硬いなすびのようなものを焼いて差し出してくれた。よくみると地面にごろごろ落ちているものだった。皮をむいて食べるだと良い、差し出してくれた人が自分でも食べ始めた。少し口に入れてみたらイモの種類だと判ったが全く食べることが出来ず、丁重にお返しした(笑)。私がそれを口に入れた時の歪んだ顔をみて村人達が笑った。何か食べないとと思い手持ちのビスケットを2~3切れとサプリを摂るのだがバイクと私の回りに大勢の人だかり(観客?)の中で食べるのは落ち着かない(笑) 30分ほど休ませてもらっただろうか。そろそろ行こうとしたところで芋?と椅子の御礼に日本から持ってきた手品を見せたらこれが大ウケで拍手喝采!(世界ニ周のうらんさん、ご進言有り難う!)気持ちよく村を出発しようとするがこの先も道が不安だ。次の経由地のキペンバはこっちでいんだよね?と村人に確認すると一人の若い男性(後から17歳と判った)が「私が案内する」というジェスチャーをする。その少年は私の前を自分の足で走って誘導をし始めたのだ。休憩をとらせてもらった町を出ると、これまた悪路に加えて困るのは道の分かれ道が村の中の人の家の敷地の中にあることだ。そんな状態なので本当に道に迷う。この新たに出会えた少年ガイドがいなかったら絶対に消息不明になるところだ(笑) 超悪路の場所では道のどの場所をトレースすればいいか丁寧に指示を出しながら私の数メートル前を走ってくれている。

キペンバまであと14キロあるというのでどこまで一緒に行ってくれるのだろう?と思いながら後をついていくことにした。いつか幾分、道の状態が良くなったところまで案内してくれるのかなとも思った。どこまで行っても道は良くならない。途中で彼の友達が合流した。その彼(16才)は自転車だった。自転車の彼が前を走りその後をランナーの彼が走り、そしてオートバイの私が走る。そしてなんとその後を幼稚園~小学生の子供が沢山、走っている(笑) 最初の休んだ村から着いてきた子供が10人くらい。途中で通過する村から子供が追加?されたり、さらに私が疲れて休む別の村でさらに子供が追加され、多い時は30人くらいの子供が私達のあとを着いて走ってきていただろうか。村の一大イベントのようだった。子供達はあまり遠くまで走ると家に帰れないので次第にその人数は減って行く。最後は自転車、ランナー、私の三人になった。途中の路上で私がへばって休息をとるため停車して居る時にどこまで一緒に走ってくれるつもりと聞くと、キペンバまで行きますと言うではないか。結局彼らは、14キロの道のりを完全に走りきったのだ!しかもそこからまた帰らないといけない!言葉にならない感動だ!その小さな町に到着するとすでに15:00を過ぎでいたので泊まれる所を探したいというと彼らは町で一番いい(といっても2つしかないが)宿を探してくれた。やっと宿に辿りついたところで、ずっと一緒に話しをしていた「町に着いたら一緒にコーラを飲もうな!」と言っていた通りコーラを一緒に飲み、水、御礼を渡した。とても満足そうな彼らを私はとっても誇らしくまた愛おしく思った。アフリカの懐の深さがここにもあった。その町の宿に到着するといろんな人が集まってきた。教会の人、学校の先生、軍隊の教官、村長さん、そして宿のオーナーで町一番の実力者(周囲の方から「Big BOSS」と呼ばれていて超コワオモテ。。(怖/笑))。基本的には私が何者なのか。何をしにこの町にきたのかを確認したいらしい。そう、私は完全に現地の人たちからみたら超珍しい外国人でしかない。観光地でもないので不思議なのは当たり前。観光地でないところで泊まる際は結構、ここに来た理由を聞かれる。私の場合はオートバイがあるのでそうでもないがテロリストが町に潜入したかの不安そうな目で私が見られることもある。日本でのチャリティ活動というと幾分、理解してもらえる。

夕食は宿の方、手作りの豚料理をごちそうになった。トイレは「出したら」汲んできた水を便器内に注ぐ方式で水洗はありえない。ここの家には珍しく風呂場があるのだが水道は使えずためてある風呂用の水を頭からかぶる。初体験だったがここに行き着くまでが大変だったのでここでの水浴びはすごく気持ちよかった。電気も通じていないので日が落ちると真っ暗闇の部屋の中でブログをうつ。パソコンの光がやけに明るく目が痛い。暗闇の中、宿のオーナーと私だけで夕食をとりながらお互いのことを話した。初対面の時とうって変わって大変親切で優しく接してくれ私と出会えたことを大変喜んでくれた。また英語が私くらい?出来る人だったので助かった。【宿の名称不明;USD50夕食&朝食込み】

明日、雨だけは降らないでくれ!と祈りながら外で夜空を見上げながら用を足し(笑)、明日に備えて早めに眠りにつく。また寝袋を使ったことは言うまでもない。。



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コンゴ民主(DRC)側の国境は青空の下、手続きを!そこがキゼンガ!(笑)






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村長さんの家には発電機があり電気を使う際はこれを始動させる。






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こうやって幹線道と思っていた道がどんどん狭くなるとどんどん不安になる(大汗)




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先行者がいてくれると精神的不安は全くなくなって有り難い。

 




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若干道がよくなってきたところで車がやって来た。もの凄い物資と人工を運んでいく。



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村で停車すると一気に観客(?)が集まる。








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日曜だったのである町で市がやっていてバイクの通る隙間もないほど路上に商品を並べている場所も。




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これがなんなのか、不明だが口にしてみた。どんなに腹がへっていても食べることが出来なかった。





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今日はここまで・・キペンバという小さな町の宿に辿りついた途端、町の長老達との懇談が始まる。





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写真中央の少年二名(マフラーと棒)が14キロを助けてくれた名ガイド君。







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コーラを飲む!







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町では特別、珍しい豪邸。








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DSCF2956大親分のお家がホテル(?)になっていてバイクを屋内まで入れさせてくれた。






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夕方、この家に客人(私)が来たことを知ってか食材を売り込みにきた少年(中央)。豚の部位だった(@@)宿の世話人(写真左)の方が「これ食べたい?」と言って調理してくれた。




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とっても美味しい夕食を振る舞ってくれた(感謝)私はお酒は飲まないというとコーラを用意してくれた。いたれり尽くせリ。。ここでは沢山、食べさせてもらった。




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これからも連絡を取り合いましょう!と意気投合し名刺交換した。有り難うございます、アンドレさん!



マケラ(アンゴラ)~キゼンガ(DRCコンゴ)の旅 / Trip from Maquela [Angola] to Gizenga [DRC Congo]


大変な旅だった。もうその一言。笑ってもらっていいです。
ぶっちゃけ、泣きが入りました(笑)
 

I just can say it was really tough trip. You can laugh at me. Honestly I almost cried. (LOL)
 

金曜の夜だったこともあってか真夜中まで大音量を鳴り響かせる宿の中庭の音を尻目に頑張って寝た。
窓は壊れて閉まらないので夜が深まると寒くなって来た。

旅に出て初めて寝袋を使った。持ってきて良かった^^(寝袋持ってけとアドバイスくれた方、有り難う!)でももうしばらく使うことはないだろう。

いきなり警察が部屋に来て突然連行していく町とはおサラバだぜ!(笑)
ということで出来る限り早めに出発することにした。
 

Maybe it was the Friday night, people made loud sounds into the wee hour at the backyard in the hotel but I tried to go sleep. The window in my room was broken, so I couldn't close it and it was getting cold. I used my sleeping bag for the first time in this journey. I'm glad that I brought it. :-) (I thank to the person who told me to bring a sleeping bag to the journey!) But I think I won't use it for a while. I can say good-bye to the town which police came to a room and take a person to the police station suddenly! LOL So I decided to leave the town as much as I can.
 

いつものように5:00に起き、6:00を目標に出る。
想定していた悪路を走り町を抜けていくと思ったとおりさらに道の状態が酷くなる。
グラベル、砂利、ダート、深砂、地割れ、巨大水たまり・・交互にやってくる。
2時間半ほど走ったところでこれでもか、というくらい悪くなってきたところでそろそろ予定の国境付近の町に近づいているはずだ。
完全に車が走れる道はここで終了という所に村があったのでバイクを停めていると村人に(私が行こうとしていた地図上の)
「ここはバンザ・ソッソですか?」
「違うよ、それは戻って違う道だよ。こここは違う村です」という。
分かれ道など無かったのにどういうことだ?(かなり不安)
とにかくキンシャサに行きたいと、国境はありますか?というと12キロ走ったところが国境だという。
 

I get up at 5 am as usual and try to leave at 6 am. I drive the bad road which I assumed and passed through the town, then the road situation become worth as my expectation. Gravel, sand, dirt, deep sand, crack and a huge puddle comes one after the other. I've drove for about 2 hours and half and the road situation is getting worth than ever. I thought that I'm coming close to the town which is close by the border. There is a village at the road ends that I cannot go forward by cars or motorbikes anymore, so I parked there and asked a person from the village that "Is here Banza Sosso?" Then he said "No. You need to go back and take other road. Here is different village." There was no fork in the road but what's going on? (I'm so nervous. ) I said that "I want to go Kinshasa anyway. Is there the border close here?" then he said there is the border 12 km away from here.
 

よしそこへ行こうと思い道を聞くとその道だよと。
そこは完全な「あぜ道」。。(唖然)
自転車かオートバイか歩行者しか走れない道。
草木が腰丈まで生えている真ん中に土の路面が見える。
それも深い砂の部分もある。
ハンドルをとられながらゆっくり進んでいくとひどい地割れ&急激な下り坂があり、下りきった所が川。川で洗濯をする村人がいる。
その川を渡るための橋が完全に手作り。
何年前のものかわからないがその川を渡るのに失敗したトラックが川に落ちている(戦慄!)
 

I decided that I go there, so I asked me the way to get there then he said take that way. Its a completely footpath. It is overhung with vegetation as my waist tall and I can see dirt surface in the middle. Moreover there is a part that is deep sand. Sometimes I lost my control but I moved forward slowly then there are crack and very sudden downhill slope, and there is a river the end of the downhill slope. There are people who are washing their clothes at the river. The bridge for crossing the river is completely handmade. I'm not sure what year ago but a track which failed in for crossing the river was in the river. *shivered!*
 

その橋を前に恐怖におののいて(?)佇んでいるとまたヘルプしてくれる村人が3人登場。
橋の状態を見て今にも外れそうな道板を整えてくれた。
行くしかないので最悪のことを考え、全ての荷物を降ろし、身に着けているウエストバッグも、バイクに装着してある携帯電話もGPSも全て外した。
そろそろと怖々、ガタ付く道板の上をゆっくり、ゆっくり足を付きながらバイクを移動させ、やっと無事渡り終えることが出来た!
 

When I was standing in front of the bridge as terrified(?), 3 people from the village showed up for helping me. They checked the state of the bridge and prepared the gangplank which is likely to separate at any moment for me. I had no choice, so supposing the case of being the worst, I took down all the loads and removed all also of the waist bag which I have put on, the mobile phone and GPS with which the motorbike are equipped.  I move a motorbike, a leg being slowly attached in the gangplank top which shakes, and was able to finish crossing safely at last! 
 

手伝ってくれた村人に御礼をしている所に進行方向から女の子を乗せたバイクの男性がやってきた。
僅かな英語が話せるので嬉しかったが自分は国境の係官だという。
私が向かおうとしていた所のだ。村人も彼はそうだと。
「パスポートを」というので差し出すとビザの日付を差し、アンゴラ国内での滞在期限が切れているという。そんなはずはないでしょ。
2月17日は入国の期限でそこから30日の猶予があるはずだと伝えても一切ダメ。
「私がイミグレーションの人間だからスタンプは押せない」と。
 

When I was thanking to them, a man who picked up the girl behind the motorbike from the direction of movement came. I was glad that he can speak English a little and he said he's an officer from the border. The village people said so too. He asked me to show him my passport, so I showed him then he pointed the date of the visa and said it's already been expired for staying in Angora.It's impossible. I told him that the date which is February 17th is the deadline for coming into the country, so I have 30 days to stay in Angora but he said "I'm an officer at the immigration and cannot stamp it." 
 

確かに以前ポリスストップでも警官にそこを指摘されてたが言葉が通じないのでそこでは通過していた。とにかく滞在期間延長の許可を取るためにマケラに行かなければならないという。
せっかく朝早く起きてマケラを脱出(?)してきたのにまた戻るのか!!
しかもこの2時間半走ってきた悪路を!
彼は私のパスポートを預かったまま返さないので仕方ない。
 

Actually a police man pointed out it at a police stop before but I couldn't understand the language,so I could pass there. Anyway I have to go back to Maquela for getting the permission for extending my stay. I have to go back even I got up early in the morning and escaped (?) from Maquela!!? Moreover, gotta go back the terribly bad road! He's kept my passport and never tried to give me back, so I have no choice. 
 

一瞬、精魂尽き果て、マケラに戻る道中、何度も転倒するはめに。
転倒の度にその係官がバイクを起こすのを手伝ってくれたのは有り難かったが・・。
結局マケラで偉い上司の承認を終え、また酷い悪路を戻り国境に向かうことに。
まったく同じ道をまた行く。
私が行こうとしていた道は途中あったが地図の間違いだったようでそれは通っていける道でなかった。
どちらにしてもだが、そういえばウイジェのホテルのスタッフが
「その国境は車などで行くところでなく、歩いて行く場所と聞いていますよ」
と言っていた言葉は正に真実だった。
誰も車で行く人、来る人がいない。
 

I was beat-out on the way back to Maquela, so I fall down many times. Each time the officer helped me to stand my motorbike back and I thanked him about it though... At last, I got an approval from hi big boss in Maquela and had to come back on the same bad road to go to the border. I drive completely same road again. Although there was a way to which I am trying to go on the way, as it was a mistake in a map, it was not a way along which I can pass. I come to think of it, the hotel staff in Uige said "I heard that the border is located that we go by walk not by cars." and it was really true. Nobody comes by cars. 
 

二度目になる往路は少しは慣れたこともあり少し早いペースに。
そして私と共にまたイミグレーションの係官が一緒に国境まで行ってくれることになり、そしてそこで彼自身がスタンプを押すのだと。
もう二人でツーリングを楽しもうと気持ちを入れ替えるようにした。
長い、長い、マケラから国境までの旅だった。
例の川渡りも二度目を無事終えさらにその後の道が想像を絶する道@@ 
撮影写真が無いのは私の精神状態を表していると思って下さい(苦/冒険者失格)
 

Since I grew familiar with the second outward trip for a while, I have driven at the somewhat early pace. And the officer come to the border with me and he said he will stamp to my passport by himself. I got a grip that I try to enjoy the touring with him. It was long long trip from Maquela to the border. I was a way where the river passage also finishes the second time safely, and also a subsequent way is beyond imagination. Please understand that there is no pictures means I had no space to do it. (*tough* being unfit venturer) 

やっと、アンゴラ側の国境に到着してその係官が無事出国スタンプを押してくれ、コンゴの国境へ向かうことになる。
そこまでの約3キロほどが史上最悪。。
なんとそこまでその係官が一緒に行ってくれると言う。
偉く優しい。
途中までは良かったがある地点から急激な上り斜面。
地割れも凄く、道と呼べない地面はバイクが通れるラインはタイヤ幅ほどしかない。
ここでも何度も転倒したためついにイミグレの係官が
「バイクを交換しよう。私が走ってみますよ」と。
彼は兵士でもあり特殊な訓練を受けているのとその道でさえも走り慣れた地元民であるため上手に私のバイクをDRCコンゴの国境まで運んでくれた!
それも彼が履いているものはビーサンだ!(驚)
もうこれは素直にブラボーと言いたい。
そして自分のバイクの運転技術の低さも素直に認めることにする。
 

Finally I arrived at the border of Angora side and the officer finally stamped the immigration stamp and I can go to the border of Congo. The road to the border of Congo is about 3 km and the worst way ever... The officer offered me to go there with me. Very kind. The middle of the way was OK but it became a sudden downhill slope from one point. The crack is really bad and the road which I cannot say it's a road has a too narrow line which just the motorbike can go through. I fall down many times here too, so the officer said "Let's change the driver. I will drive." He used to be a soldier and had special training before, and also he got used to go through here because of the local, so he brought my motorbike to the border of DRC Congo! Moreover he wore a pair of flip flap! *surprised*  I just want to say "Bravo" for him. And I'm accepting my driving skill is weak.
 

マケラ往復を余分にしたため結局、コンゴ側の国境に到着したのは15:00過ぎ。
宿があるような町まで行くのは道の状況も判らないので予定が立たない。
国境の村で泊まりたいと村人に告げると私の家にどうぞと言ってくれる人がいた(国境係官:Mr. Diana Konde Anicetさん28歳?)
お世話になることになりここを使っていいよと言われた部屋に荷物を入れていると、村長さんや年上の方が集まってきて少し話しをした。
用意してくれた部屋はすごい場所だが(笑)本当に有り難い。
皆、素晴らしく優しく人助けの気持ちが強い方々ばかり。
また夕食はDianaさんが作ってくれた。
ライスと魚料理だったことだけは判る。
それ以外は不明(笑) 
沢山出してくれたがあまり食欲がわかず(笑)大分残してしまい申し訳なかった。
21:00前に寝る事にする。
そしてまた二日連続寝袋を使うことになった(笑)
 

Since I went and came back to Maquela too much, eventually I arrived at the border of Congo little after 15:00. I cannot make plan because I'm not sure the road situation to get a town which has a hotel. I asked an officer that I want to stay at a village close by the border then he offered me to stay his home. (The border officer: Mr. Diana Konde Anicet 28 years old?) He took me to the room which he let me use and I put my stuff there, then a village head and older people came and talked with them a bit. The room was kind of speechless (LOL) but I really appreciated. People from here are very kind and conducive. Moreover, Mr. Diana cooked dinner for me. I can recognized that it was rice and fish but I couldn't know other ones. (LOL) He served me a lot but I didn't feel like to eat that much so I left a lot. I felt sorry about that. I tried to go to sleep before 21:00. And I have to use my sleeping bag AGAIN. (LOL)

【Dianaさん宅:いくらでもいいよと言うのでアンゴラ通貨2000円分受け取ってもらった/夕食付き】
 

[Mr. Diana's house: He said doesn't mind how much, so I gave him the amount of 2000 JPY as Angora's currency. / Included dinner.]

IMG_2554この砂道がさらに深くなります

This sand is getting deep.










IMG_2555二度と行く事も戻ることも辞めて乗り捨てられた車があるほどの悪路

A bad road which there was a car that gave up to go forward or come back. 










IMG_2557道の終点のようなところの村人達

People from the village which the end of the road.





IMG_2559川で洗濯。
桃が流れて来る感じではない(笑)

Washing clothes at a river.
It is not like "A PEACH" comes from. (LOL)


IMG_2558

この橋を渡るのが恐怖だった。

I was scared to cross this bridge.





IMG_2564行き着いたアンゴラの最北端の国境

Finally I arrived at the northern end of the border in Angora.




 
DSCF2924

 

DRCコンゴ側の国境に入った所で時間切れ。泊めて頂いた家のリビング^^

 I came into the border of DRC Congo side then my time was running out. This is the living room at the house which I stayed. :-)

DSCF2925

私に提供してくれたベッドルーム^^ ずーっと、ネズミの合唱が続く部屋でした(笑)


The bed room which he let me used. :-) I had been hearing singing voice of mouses. (LOL)







DSCF2928

つぎはぎの窓。ある意味芸術的?


The patchy window. Kind of art?





DSCF2930

小さな村なのでバイクに集まる人も少なかった。疲れきったバイクも静かに休む。


It was very small village, so less people when they came to my motorbike. My motorbike which has been exhausted is taking rest calmly. 

DSCF2931

一生懸命、私の分まで夕食の支度をしてくれた


He prepared my dinner too.





DSCF2932

夕食が出来るまで、ブログを打つ。水道、電気がないのでアルコールランプとパソコンの電力のみが光る。同じ光りでも味が違う。


I wrote my blog until the preparation of the dinner done. It has no running water and electricity, so only a spirit lamp and my laptop are lighting. The taste is different even it's light. 
DSCF2934

ランプのもと、戴くやみなべのような夕食。見えないから逆に良い?(失礼)


We ate under the lamp. It is better than lighter lamp? *sorry*




DSCF2935

Dianaさんと語らいながら。


Having dinner with Diana.




【アンゴラ】ウイジェ~マケラの旅 / [Angola] Trip from Uige to Maquela

300キロちょっとの移動でDRCコンゴに入国したところで一泊し翌日キンシャサを目指す予定し、悪路を想定してウイジェを朝6:00過ぎに出発した。【ホテルサララ:USD200朝食込み】朝早く出るので朝食を早めに摂りたいと前日にホテルスタッフにいうと「NO problem, OK」とのことだったが実際はダメだった。結局、手持ちのパンを一つかじりし、朝食はそれで終了。
 

I've planned that I drive about 300 km to enter DRC Congo and stay there then I drive toward to Kinshasa next day, so I left Uige around 6:00 am because I expected that I would have bad road situation. [Hotel Salala : 200USD including breakfast] I've asked a hotel staff that I'd like to have breakfast earlier then he said "No problem, OK", but actually I couldn't have it. At last I ate one piece of bread which I had then done for the breakfast.
 

朝ガソリンを入れようとすると、ガソリンスタンドは長蛇の列。これも今のアンゴラを表す風景。通り道で隣町のネガジェというところでガソリンスタンドを探しているとオートバイに乗った人が親切にガソリンスタンドまで連れて行ってくれた。感謝。DRCコンゴに向かう道の状態はかなり良く、快調に飛ばすことが出来た。この調子でいけばひょっとすると今日中に、キンシャサも夢でない?・・なーんて考えてみることもあるが「いけない、いけない。甘い考えは禁物」と考えていたらダンバという町の手前で突然、悪路(グラベル)に変わった!ここはかなり危なかった。。(汗)普通のグラベルからどんどん道の状態は悪くなり最悪は深い砂。結果、今日は3回も転んでしまった。その内一度はヒザ近くまである轍(わだち)の道でハンドルをとられバイクが倒れる時、パニアケースと路面との間に左足が挟まれてしまった。
 

When I tried to fill gas to my motorbike, there was a long line. This is symbolism of current Angola also. When I was looking for a gas station in Negage which is next town from Uige, one motorbike rider took me to a gas station kindly. So grateful. The road situation which go forward to DRC Congo is very good, so I could be speedy. I've thought that I might be able to arrive at Kinshasa if I can drive smoothly like this, but I thought that shouldn't have like this wishing thinking then the road suddenly changed to bad (gravel) road right before the town of Damba! It was very dangerous... *sweat* The road situation was getting worth from normal gravel, and the worst thin was deep sand. Eventually I fell down 3 times today. One of it, I fell down because of a deep wheel track and when I fell down, my left leg got caught between my pania case and the road. 
 

相変わらずスピードは出ていないのでケガは無いが、足が挟まれた状態で身動きが出来ずバイクを起こすことが出来ない。どうやっても足を抜くことが出来ない状態。今まで道の左右に現地の人が沢山歩いていたのにこういう時に限って誰もいない。前からも後ろからも車も来ない。転倒状態のまま、クラクションを鳴らしてみた。私的には「SOS」のつもりのように(笑) そうすると前方遠くから音が聞こえてきた。遠くにオートバイが見えてきた!それも二人乗り(嬉) 彼らに助けを求める私のジェスチャーですぐに状況が判ったようですぐにバイクを私の近くに停め駆けつけてくれバイクを起こしてくれた。助かった。もうすべての転倒時に人に助けてもらっている。本当に有り難い。ちょっとした御礼を差し出すと皆、もの凄く嬉しそうな顔が印象的だった。
 

I didn't get hurt because I drove slowly as usual but I cannot let my motorbike stand up because my leg got caught and move my body.I couldn't make it to take off my leg from there even I tried many ways. There were some people walking around here but nobody walk around only like this case. No cars comes from front or back. I blew the horn as falling. It means "SOS for me, (LOL) Then I could hear some sound from the front. I can see a motorbike far! It is also a two-seater. *happy* They understood right way from my gesture of SOS sign, so they parked close by me and helped me. I was saved. I've helped from people at every my falling. I greatly appreciate it. When I presented slight gratitude, I was impressive to have worn the face which seems to be glad to everybody.    
 

そんな今までにない悪路が長時間続き体力も限界!と思った時、ポリスストップがあった。こんな時は検問大歓迎!(笑) 誰かと話したかった気分だった。検問に到着した途端、私が警官達の横に座り込んだのを見て相当疲れているのを察知し特に何も言わなかった。逆に私がコーラを買いたいのだが、どこで買える?と聞くとなんと、警官(?)が買いにいってくれた。またまた感謝。本当にアンゴラは素晴らしい!!と感動していた。
 

When I felt that the bad road had continued long time than ever so my physical limits came, there is a police stop! I can welcome for the police stop like this timing! (LOL) I felt like wanting to talk to someone. They saw that I made a stop there and collapsed to next to the police, so they understood that I'm exhausted and didn't say anything. But I asked them where I can buy a coke then the police(?) went to but it for me. So thankful again. I impressed that Angola is wonderful!!!

ただその先がまた長かった。検問で教えてくれた距離と大分違い、国境はまだまだ遥か彼方だった。このまま悪路の超低速走行を続けていたら何時に国境に到着するか判らない。また国境で通過するまでにどのくらい時間がかかるか判らない。今回は前回の教訓を活かして早めに宿がありそうな町で宿泊施設を探した。
 

But, it still continued... The distance was totally different from the info from the police, and the border was far far far away. I don't know when I can arrive at the border if I keep continuing for driving like this slow speed, and I don't know how long does it take to pass the border either. I looked for accommodations in a town which is likely to have a hotel a little early taking advantage of the last teachings this time. 
 

結局、国境手前のマケラという町に入ったところで通行人に聞いてみると2キロほど先に宿があるという。ちょうど2キロ走ったところで道ばたにバイクを停めて辺りを見回しているとすぐ脇から声をかけてくる男性がいた。宿を探しているというと、ここだよと言ってバイクを停めるところを案内してくれた。ラッキー。これまた今までにない宿(アフリカペンション)で建物の中の暗い通路を通り部屋の通されるとまさに部屋にベッドがおいてあるだけ。シーツがいつ換えたか不明。タオルが一枚掛かっているがすでに汚れている。トイレは屋外の共同、シャワーは?と聞くとここだよとってドラム官にためてある雨水を桶でかぶるんだと(笑) こうしてブログをベッドの上で打っていると何やら床を動くモノが。小さいネズミだ。それでも宿に辿り着けた嬉しさと安堵感はひとしおで何も気にならない。
 

Eventually, I came to the town calls Maquela that is right before the border and asked someone about a hotel, then he told me that there is a hotel in 2 km away from here. After stopping the motorbike at the roadside in the place which I drove 2 km exactly and looking around the neighborhood, I had the man who speaks from the side. I said I'm looking for a hotel then he told me that here is a hotel and take me to the parking spot. Lucky! It is the first time for me to stay like this kind of hotel (African resort inn), and the staff have me pass through the dark passage in a building to go to my room, then actually there is just only one bed in the room. I have no idea that when the sheet has been washed. There is one towel but it's already dirty. Toilet is outside and in common use. I asked him how about a bath? Then he showed me that there is a drum which hold rain water in, and use it for a bath. (LOL) While I'm writing this with my laptop now, small something is moving on the floor. It's rat. But I don't care about anything because I feel so happy and relieved that I could arrive to the hotel.

(African pension) 
 

【名称不明:マケラのペンション:USD25素泊まり】

[Unknown name: A resort inn in Maquela: 25USD with no meal]
 

さすがにドラム缶にたまった雨水(?)は使いたくなかったので外に水を多めに買い自分のタオルで体を拭く事にした。そこで事件発生。部屋に入り一息ついていて荷物を整理しているとドアを心なしか力強くノックする。ドアを開けるとごつい黒人ともうひとり警官が立っている。ポリスの腕章を指差しながら私を連行したのだ!英語が通じないので何を聞いても話しにならない。そのまま10分ほど徒歩で警察署に連れて行かれパスポートを見せろという。何度理由を聞いても明確に答えない。ついにiPhoneのソフトを使って日本大使館に連絡すると強い態度で怒って言ってみるとわかった、もういいよ、解放、と。何なんだ?!ホテルに戻り部屋に入るとまたノックが。また警察。今度はバイクが問題だと。このバイクはここに置くのでは無く警察署で預かると。そんな馬鹿な、何を言っているんだと日本語、英語、ジェスチャーを交えて一生懸命伝えていると英語が話せる人が入ってきた。その人に通訳をしてもらいながらこんなことは今までアフリカを走ってきて初めてだということも伝えた。しばらく話して結局は警察官は賄賂が欲しいだけだった。通訳とその警官はビールを一本づつおごってくれたらそれでいいんだけど・・と言ってきた。もうメンドクサイから300クワンザ(300円)払ったら態度一変(笑) 警察官はもうこれで全て終了!良く寝て下さいだって(苦笑) そして部屋に入ったら誰かがノックしても開けるなと。もう、あきれてしまう。そういえばアンゴラに入ってから今まで3回ほど私が部屋にいるのにホテルの従業員が勝手に部屋に入ってくることがあってビックリすることがあった。それ以来チェーンロックが付いているところは確実に閉めるようにしている。
 

It was little too much for me to use rain water in a drum, so I went to buy extra water at outside, and wiped my body by my towel. Then one incident occurred. I was in my room and tidy up my stuff then someone knocked my door strongly. When I opened, one big black man and one police were standing. He showed me the police arm badge and picked up! They don't understand English at all, so even I say something, didn't work. I was taken to the police station on foot about 10 minutes as it was, and was said that show me your passport passport. I asked them the reason why I was picked up many time but cannot get a clear answer. Finally I used translation function as my iPhone Apps and told them that I'm going to contact to Japanese Embassy and I expressed my anger attitude strongly, then they say it's OK and released me. What the hell was that?! When I came back to my room in the hotel, I got hear knocking the door again. They said say that my motorbike is a problem this time. They also said that this motorbike cannot park here, so take it to the police station and hold. I was telling that "No way! What are you talking about?" in Japanese, English and gesture to them then one person who can speak English came. I had him to translate and told them that I've never got like this situation since I started to drive in Africa. We talked a while then I found out that they wanted to get backhander. The guy who translated and the police said it is fine if I buy them beer... It was tiresome for me, so I gave them 300 Kwanza (300 JPY) then their attitude has been totally changed.(LOL) The police said "It's all done! Have a good sleep" *bitter smile* And also said never open the door after getting into the room again even someone knock the door. Word fail me. Well, since I came to Angola, there was 3 times that hotel staff came into my room without my permission. Since then, I've locked my door by chain if there is a chain lock.  


DSCF2888

明け方のウイジェの町。


Uige at dawn. 





DSCF2889

ここも親切な人が多かったなあ。


There were many people kind also here. 





DSCF2890

アンゴラの景色は飽きない。道さえよければドライブは最高に楽しい。


I can never be bored of Angola's scenery. It is so much fun for driving if the road situation is good.





DSCF2891

砂にハンドルをとられ転倒した時に駆けつけてくれた方々。特大のナタをもっている方々だった。狩人?


They are people who came to me when I fell at deep sand. They have a huge hatchet.Hunters?





DSCF2892

またやってしまった。


I did again.





DSCF2893

今度は足が挟まり、ぬ、抜けない!!(焦)


My leg got caught this time and cannot take off!!! 





DSCF2895

コーラを買いに言ってくれた警官のバイク。LINGKENというブランドだった。どこ製?


The motorbike of the police man who came to buy me a coke. The brand was LINGKEN. Where did it made from?




DSCF2897親切にしてくれた警官達。

The police men who were kind to me.





DSCF2898

やっと到着したペンションの薄暗い通路。


The dark passage in the resort inn which I finally arrived at.





DSCF2900

トイレはきれい


The toilet is clean.










DSCF2901

風呂場・・?(笑)


The bath room? (LOL)





DSCF2902

中庭にバイクを置かせてもらった。


I parked my motorbike in the backyard. 





DSCF2906

ゲートがあり中は安全とのこと。


They said it's safe in the gate.





DSCF2907

宿の外観


Appearance of the inn.





DSCF2909

水を買った薬局にて


Took this at a pharmacy which I bought water.





DSCF2910

薬局の外観。皆、思い思いの時間を過ごす。


Appearance of a pharmacy. Everyone spend their time as they please.





DSCF2911

マケラの中心地


The center area in Maquela.





DSCF2912

道ばたの市は様々なモノが売られていて見てて飽きない


Many kinds of things are sold on a street bazaar. Never be bored to see it.





DSCF2914

サトウキビを食べてる子供にカメラを向けるとかじり出してくれた


When I focused to kids who were eating sugar canes, he started to bite it.





DSCF2916

摩訶不思議な店が二件有り。子供に大人気の不思議なパフォーマンスを見せているようだったが入り切れなかった(笑)


There are 2 magical shops. They seemed to show enigmatic performance in there and so popular to kids, but I couldn't come in because too many kids. (LOL)




DSCF2918

裸電球、


A bare light bulb.











DSCF2920コンセント、扇風機完備の部屋!上出来^^

The room which has plugs and a fan. It's good enough :)






<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

[Angola] Trip from Luanda to Uige

<I've never thought that it took 7 hours for just 320 km of distance... *tired*>

 

 It was my 3rd day staying in Luanda to work on documents work and also rest yesterday. I look for DHL to send the filming data of the interviews which I've had since Cape Town to Japan. I asked a staff from the hotel but couldn't get clear answer, so I used my iPhone to look for it and follow the iPhone map then it was there! Very useful!! On my way back to the hotel, I dropped by some shops to buy a three-pronged outlet for Africa, and I looked for bug killer for mosquitoes but couldn't find it.The server of internet in the hotel has been down since my 3rd day of staying and I cannot sent important emails which are for making appointments in Kinshasa and also related my visa etc.I heard that there is a Japanese restaurant near the hotel, so I went there for my dinner! First, the price is expensive. I found out from the internet that oil industry in Angola has gotten on the right track and started the economic bobble, so it seems that now is the term that commodity price is rising. Therefore, cost of hotels and foods are really expensive, and it is said that Angola is the highest commodity price in the world by businessmen from all over the world. Back to concerts, the restaurant will be kind of  very snazzy and high-class. When I check the menu, there is "Yakitori"! *happy* I almost ordered it but I was checking other dishes, then I found "beef Katsu" aka deep flied beef! The yakitori in Cape Town was fail and I'm from Gifu prefecture where has the local specialty Miso-Katsu which is my favorite, so I ordered beef katsu this time. Also I ordered order water as my drink. I asked a server that rice is aside or not then he said it's aside. When I finished ordering, I was served water with biscuit, olive oil and chunk tuna. I thought it was just free appetizer but actually it charged. And even there is some left some on the dish, they took my place away... Then the beef Katsu came! When I saw it, I thought "it's not Katsu..." (LOL) But I ate! Well... the taste was... hmm... I left one big piece of it. Well, I got good experience. The rice was charged too, so the total price is 4000 JPY! My lesson from the trip in Africa is "I should have local delicious foods instead of looking for Japanese food one way or another. "



 Well, I will leave Luanda and go toward to the next town for going to DRC Congo today. I dithered which town I should chose for next from Luanda. It is expected the bad road situation for the ocean side route which passes N'zeto, Matadi and Kinshasa as my itinerary. There is also a route via Uige which passes along the center of Angola by the national highway by the side of a mountain, and I asked many people in Luanda. Since there were many opinions that the way via Uige was synthetically safe, I decided to change my itinerary route. In the morning, I checked out and tried to pay by my credit card but the transaction didn't go through. I lost my 30 mins about it. It seems that communication circumstance is still bad at  here. I paid by US dollars. When I left the hotel, I hit heavy traffic! Seemingly it is that this also symbolizes the present Angola. It seems that there is a day that it takes several hours to move just 1 km although many vehicles increased at a stretch, the infrastructure of the road has not caught up at all. It took an hour and half to go through the town! It was really painful... The road was jam-packed and everyone try to get ahead of others by slow speed like a war. One not nice guy hit my motorbike on purpose! Actually twice! Other driver who saw that I staggered got on at him. The road is not pavement surface road, so the dust rise so bad! It is the right word to be said as developing country. I thought that I want to see Luanda 20 years later from now. 

After I went through the traffic, the pavement surface road has been started and it continued to Uige. But it is the winding road so I cannot be speedy. And I wanted to say again and again and AGAIN?! because there were too many police stops. Most of cars were just stopped temporarily then police let them go, but they talked to me and asked me to show my passport, so it takes time every stop.  Basically police men in Angola are nice people but isn't there anything they can do... *bitter smile*


From Luanda to Uige is categorized to North part of Angola. There are atmosphere of villages on the way and touch different from former. I was the most surprised thing was the thing which hang something by a hanger. It seems some kind of animal is hanged. If it is a rat, it's huge! When I look closer, it is a monkey that is hanged like dried fruits. Actually many... There were some cars which they tried to buy the monkeys also. I missed to take photos but it was the memorable scene. (LOL)

Moreover, I saw most persons with trouble in a leg until now today. Probably because of land mines. 


DSCF2839




I've seen this type of toilet since I came into Angola. I don't use one of them so it's needless. (LOL) It was just short time to get hot water at a bath.



DSCF2842



The view from my room was like one day in Shanghai. Rush to build buildings.





DSCF2844



This is the menu in the Japanese restaurant. I laughed about "Misoshiro".





DSCF2846



This beef Katsu was...





DSCF2848



Inside of the restaurant.





DSCF2850



These are big pocky which is Japanese snack. (LOL)






DSCF2856



They use same deep fry batter as shrimps for this beef. It was subtle in flavor. (LOL)





DSCF2859



Lacoste is next to the restaurant. Brand shops will be increased here.





DSCF2861



A sticker of my favorite man who is Che Guevarra was put on a car which parked on a street. 

Thinking about it, I was happy that Che Guevarra was drawn on one wall as all over in Sumbe where was on the way I came from Lobito to Luanda. It is because it is the Cuba army which rescued Angola independence from the colony in Portugal. Did Che set foot in Angola?


DSCF2863



There is Radio Ecclesia when I leave Luanda. Thank you for your help.






DSCF2869



Even it loses one tire, doesn't matter. (LOL)





DSCF2870



Please pay attention to this tricyclic motorbike!  It was written "KEWESEKI" !





DSCF2871-1

I laughed a lot.









DSCF2871



Heavy traffic...





DSCF2872



Many salesmen approach cars using this traffic. They don't lose their business chances! (LOL)





DSCF2873



It is too hard to sneak through even a motorbike!





DSCF2876



Not only Angora but there are many China business advances in Africa. 
It stood out here and there. 




e1



Take a break at jungle area.





e2

 








e3



When I look up, there are some fruits. It was likely to fall on my head. 





f1

There was a building which makes intense war fire imagine also by this trip. 





f2



There are many bullet marks in a wall. 





f3



Ruins at which it stands still quietly. 
What do villagers consider? 





<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

【アンゴラ】ルアンダ~ウイジェ(Uige)の旅

<僅か320キロほどの移動に7時間もかかるとは。。(疲)>

<I've never thought that it took 7 hours for just 320 km of distance... *tired*>

 

昨日は事務作業と休養をかねて三日目のルアンダ滞在となった。ケープタウン以来たまってきた撮影データを日本に送るためDHLを探す。ホテルのスタッフに聞いても明確な返事が返ってこなかったのでiPhoneのマップソフトを利用して行くとドンピシャ!超~助かる!! 帰りにアフリカ仕様コンセントの三つ又を購入したり蚊の殺虫剤がなくってきたので探してみたけどこれは入手出来なかった。ホテルのインターネットも三日目からサーバーがダウンしているようで重要なメール(キンシャサでの子供アポイントやビザ関係など)を送ることが出来なくなった。夜は近くに日本食屋があるというので行ってみた!まず値段はやはり高い。インターネットで情報収集してみてわかったことだが今アンゴラは石油産業が軌道に乗ったとのことでバブル状態が始まったところらしくなんでも物価が高騰している時期のよう。だからホテル代も、食事代もちょっとまともなところは異様に高く世界中のビジネスマンの間では今アンゴラは世界一物価が高いところと言われるほどになったとか。話しを戻すと和食屋はとってもおしゃれがレストランで高級の部類に入るだろう。メニューを見ると「yakitori」があるではないか!(嬉)もうそれにしようと思いつつも他にどんなものがあるのかな~と一通り見てみると、「beef katsu」がある!ケープタウンで焼き鳥は失敗したのと、私は岐阜出身で東海地方の名物ミソカツは私の大好物。なので今回はビーフカツを頼んでみた。飲み物はミネラルウォーターのみ。ライスは付いていつのか聞くと付いていると。注文を終えたところで水と一緒にポッキーの太いやつ(なんていうんだっけ?(笑))がオリーヴオイルとシーチキンと一緒に出てきた。これはサービスだろうと思い食べたら結果、チャージされていた。それもまだ残っているのに途中で下げられるし。。そうこうしているうちにカツが来た!一目見て「カツじゃない・・」(笑) でも、ほうばる!・・味は、うーん。。大きいカツを一切れ残すことに。まあ良い経験をした。結局ライスも別料金でチャージされていて料金はしめて4000円!ここまでのアフリカの旅での教訓は「なんとかして日本食を探して食べるよりも地元の美味しい料理を食べるべし」


 It was my 3rd day staying in Luanda to work on documents work and also rest yesterday. I look for DHL to send the filming data of the interviews which I've had since Cape Town to Japan. I asked a staff from the hotel but couldn't get clear answer, so I used my iPhone to look for it and follow the iPhone map then it was there! Very useful!! On my way back to the hotel, I dropped by some shops to buy a three-pronged outlet for Africa, and I looked for bug killer for mosquitoes but couldn't find it.The server of internet in the hotel has been down since my 3rd day of staying and I cannot sent important emails which are for making appointments in Kinshasa and also related my visa etc.I heard that there is a Japanese restaurant near the hotel, so I went there for my dinner! First, the price is expensive. I found out from the internet that oil industry in Angola has gotten on the right track and started the economic bobble, so it seems that now is the term that commodity price is rising. Therefore, cost of hotels and foods are really expensive, and it is said that Angola is the highest commodity price in the world by businessmen from all over the world. Back to concerts, the restaurant will be kind of  very snazzy and high-class. When I check the menu, there is "Yakitori"! *happy* I almost ordered it but I was checking other dishes, then I found "beef Katsu" aka deep flied beef! The yakitori in Cape Town was fail and I'm from Gifu prefecture where has the local specialty Miso-Katsu which is my favorite, so I ordered beef katsu this time. Also I ordered order water as my drink. I asked a server that rice is aside or not then he said it's aside. When I finished ordering, I was served water with biscuit, olive oil and chunk tuna. I thought it was just free appetizer but actually it charged. And even there is some left some on the dish, they took my place away... Then the beef Katsu came! When I saw it, I thought "it's not Katsu..." (LOL) But I ate! Well... the taste was... hmm... I left one big piece of it. Well, I got good experience. The rice was charged too, so the total price is 4000 JPY! My lesson from the trip in Africa is "I should have local delicious foods instead of looking for Japanese food one way or another. "


さて今日はついにルアンダを離れDRCコンゴへ向かうための次の町へ。このルアンダの次の町をどこにするかが迷った。旅程にあるヌゼト~マタディ~キンシャサの海側を通るルートは大変な悪路が予想される。山側の国道でアンゴラの中央を通るUige(ウイジェ)経由もありルアンダで多くの人に聞いてみた。総合的にはウイジェ経由のほうが安全ではないかという声が多かったので旅程ルートを変更することにした。朝、ホテルでチェックアウトの支払いをしようとするとカードが通らない。このことで約30分以上ロス。通信事情もまだまだ相当悪いようだ。結局全てUSドルで支払い出発することに。ホテルを出るといきなり大渋滞!これも今のアンゴラを象徴することらしい。一気に車両の台数が増えたのに道路インフラは全く追いついていなく1キロ移動するのに数時間かかる日もあるらしい。街を抜けるのに1時間半もかかった!これは本当に辛かった。。道路はスシ詰め状態で戦争のように我先にと低速で抜き合う。途中嫌なドライバーがトラックで私のバイクにわざと当ててきた!それも二度も!私が当てられ、よろけるのを見て別のドライバーがその運転手に文句を言ってくれている。道もガタガタ未舗装路で土ぼこりが凄い!本当に発展途上国とはよくいったものだ。20年後のルアンダを見てみたいと思った。

渋滞の街を抜けると逆に舗装路が始まりそれはウイジェまで続く。ただしかなりのワインディングロードなのでスピードは全然出せない。あと、また?!また?!またー!!??というほどポリスストップの嵐。ほとんど他の車両は一時停止後、警官が行って良いよという感じでスルーしていくのに対し、私に対してはいろいろと話しかけるのとパスポートを確認してくるので常に時間がかかる。基本的にアンゴラの警官もいい人ばかりだがもう少しなんとかならないかな(苦笑)

 Well, I will leave Luanda and go toward to the next town for going to DRC Congo today. I dithered which town I should chose for next from Luanda. It is expected the bad road situation for the ocean side route which passes N'zeto, Matadi and Kinshasa as my itinerary. There is also a route via Uige which passes along the center of Angola by the national highway by the side of a mountain, and I asked many people in Luanda. Since there were many opinions that the way via Uige was synthetically safe, I decided to change my itinerary route. In the morning, I checked out and tried to pay by my credit card but the transaction didn't go through. I lost my 30 mins about it. It seems that communication circumstance is still bad at  here. I paid by US dollars. When I left the hotel, I hit heavy traffic! Seemingly it is that this also symbolizes the present Angola. It seems that there is a day that it takes several hours to move just 1 km although many vehicles increased at a stretch, the infrastructure of the road has not caught up at all. It took an hour and half to go through the town! It was really painful... The road was jam-packed and everyone try to get ahead of others by slow speed like a war. One not nice guy hit my motorbike on purpose! Actually twice! Other driver who saw that I staggered got on at him. The road is not pavement surface road, so the dust rise so bad! It is the right word to be said as developing country. I thought that I want to see Luanda 20 years later from now. 

After I went through the traffic, the pavement surface road has been started and it continued to Uige. But it is the winding road so I cannot be speedy. And I wanted to say again and again and AGAIN?! because there were too many police stops. Most of cars were just stopped temporarily then police let them go, but they talked to me and asked me to show my passport, so it takes time every stop.  Basically police men in Angola are nice people but isn't there anything they can do... *bitter smile*


ルアンダからウイジェはアンゴラ北部に部類する。道中の村の雰囲気も今までと違う感じもある。一番驚いたのは何か吊るしてあるハンガーのようなものがある。何か動物が吊るしてあるようだ。ネズミにしてはかなりデカイ!よく見るとサル。。サルが干し柿のように吊るされているではないか。それも何匹も。そのサルを買うために止まっている車両の人もいた。撮影は失敗に終わったがえらく思い出に残る風景だった(笑)

また今日は今までで一番多く足が不自由な人を見かけた。やはり地雷の影響だろう。


From Luanda to Uige is categorized to North part of Angola. There are atmosphere of villages on the way and touch different from former. I was the most surprised thing was the thing which hang something by a hanger. It seems some kind of animal is hanged. If it is a rat, it's huge! When I look closer, it is a monkey that is hanged like dried fruits. Actually many... There were some cars which they tried to buy the monkeys also. I missed to take photos but it was the memorable scene. (LOL)

Moreover, I saw most persons with trouble in a leg until now today. Probably because of land mines. 


DSCF2839

アンゴラに入ってからトイレがこのタイプを見かけるようになった。片方は使わないから入らないんですけど(笑) お風呂はあったかいお湯が出るが短い時間のみだった。


I've seen this type of toilet since I came into Angola. I don't use one of them so it's needless. (LOL) It was just short time to get hot water at a bath.



DSCF2842

部屋から見える景色は或る日の上海のようだった。建設ラッシュ。


The view from my room was like one day in Shanghai. Rush to build buildings.





DSCF2844

和食レストランのメニュー。「みそしろ」に笑った。


This is the menu in the Japanese restaurant. I laughed about "Misoshiro".





DSCF2846

このビーフカツが。。


This beef Katsu was...





DSCF2848

店内。


Inside of the restaurant.





DSCF2850

ポッキーの大きいやつ(笑)


These are big pocky which is Japanese snack. (LOL)





DSCF2856

海老フライを揚げる衣でビーフを揚げてある。超微妙な味(笑)


They use same deep fry batter as shrimps for this beef. It was subtle in flavor. (LOL)





DSCF2859

隣がラコステだった。ブランドショップが今後増えるのでしょう


Lacoste is next to the restaurant. Brand shops will be increased here.





DSCF2861

道に止まっていた車に私が大好きな「チェ・ゲバラ」のステッカーが。
そういえば、ロビトからルアンダの途中のスンベという町で店の壁が一面、ゲバラだったのは嬉しかった。ポルトガルの植民地からアンゴラ独立を助けたキューバ軍だからだ。チェ自身はこのアンゴラの地を踏んだのだろうか。


A sticker of my favorite man who is Che Guevarra was put on a car which parked on a street. 

Thinking about it, I was happy that Che Guevarra was drawn on one wall as all over in Sumbe where was on the way I came from Lobito to Luanda. It is because it is the Cuba army which rescued Angola independence from the colony in Portugal. Did Che set foot in Angola?


DSCF2863

ルアンダを離れるとき、ラジオイグレシアスがあった。お世話になりましたm(__)m


There is Radio Ecclesia when I leave Luanda. Thank you for your help.






DSCF2869

タイヤなんて一個くらいなくてもへっちゃらです(笑)


Even it loses one tire, doesn't matter. (LOL)





DSCF2870

この3輪バイクに注目!「KEWESEKI」と書いている!


Please pay attention to this tricyclic motorbike!  It was written "KEWESEKI" !





DSCF2871-1爆笑した。

I laughed a lot.









DSCF2871

大渋滞。。


Heavy traffic...





DSCF2872

この渋滞を利用して多くの売り子が車に近寄ります。ビジネスチャンスは逃さない!(笑)


Many salesmen approach cars using this traffic. They don't lose their business chances! (LOL)





DSCF2873

バイクでさえもすり抜けが大変!


It is too hard to sneak through even a motorbike!





DSCF2876

アンゴラに限らずですがこのアフリカでは中国企業進出が多いこと多いこと。

あちこちで目につきました。


Not only Angora but there are many China business advances in Africa. 
It stood out here and there. 



e1

ジャングル地帯で休憩


Take a break at jungle area.





e2

 








e3

上を見上げると何か果実が。頭の上にオッコッて来そうでした。


When I look up, there are some fruits. It was likely to fall on my head. 





f1この道中でも激しい戦火を想像させる建物が。

There was a building which makes intense war fire imagine also by this trip. 





f2

壁には多くの弾痕が。


There are many bullet marks in a wall. 





f3

ひっそりとたたずむ廃墟。村人は何を思うのか。


Ruins at which it stands still quietly. 
What do villagers consider? 





<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

本人より代筆の修正をいたします(笑)

皆様、ご心配おかけしました。無事キンシャに着きました!
To all,  I am sorry that I have caused so many worries.  I arrived at Kinshasa safely!

2/16ルアンダ(アンゴラ)
Feb. 16th Luanda (Angola)

2/17ウイゲ(アンゴラ)
Feb. 17th Uige (Angola)

2/18マケラドゾンボ(アンゴラ)
Feb. 18th Marakedozonbo (Angola)

2/19 キゼンガ(コンゴ民主共和国)
Feb. 19th Gizenga (Congo)

2/20 キペンバ(コンゴ民主共和国)
Feb. 20th Bemba (Congo)

2/21キンシャサ(コンゴ民主共和国)
Feb. 21st Kinshasa (Congo)

(事務局長:ごりちゃん有り難う)
(Thank you, Gori-chan who is a secretary-general)

このホテルもインターネット環境が不安定ですが、未掲載分のブログをなんとか上げられればと思っています。   
This hotel has unstable internet environment but I will try to upload of articles which I've not done in my blog.


<Mika Igisu for Tatsuya Yamada>

和光小学校

世界各国の子どもたちの声をお届けします。

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